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Equaliser Wall

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Description

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Rock:

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

FA: S.Grkovic, 2002

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

FA: S. Grkovic, 2002

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

FA: Vince Day, 2009

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

FA: B.Littleford

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap. Finishes at a single bolt below the choss. Back jump to previous bolt below overlap with bail biner to clean.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

FA: J.Clark, 2001

The obvious 'line' on this side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1995

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

Start behind the tree 12m R of Iron Mike. Batman start. Depending on the length of your draws it may be wise to extend the 4th so it doesn't grind your rope on the little lip if you whip. One of the dryest routes at Shipley when the seepage lines are all pumping down the rest of the wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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