Hot Flyer Wall





USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The next three routes share the same start off the 5th access log.

Left hand route off the 5th access tree. Mostly very moderate but with quite a tricky crux.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

Fresh anchors.

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular outing on some of the best rock at the crag. A hold snapped late 2015 making the moves past the 2nd last bolt a little harder, but doesn't change the grade.

FA: C. Peisker & T. Williams, 1986

Right hand route off the fifth access log. As for Loop, then traverse hard right clipping an independent third bolt and up. Wanders around a bit but don't get too confused and end up of Barnstorming.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

Barnstorming to Hot Flyer share the same start.

As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up to where a wide orange streak is passed with, umm, difficulty.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

The original start to HF offers 95% independent climbing. Start as for Hot Flyer for 2m then left and up wall and flake to lower-off in halfway break. Does not share any bolts with HF.

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

Lower off after slab

Warning Flora and Fauna: Falcons nesting

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below).

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Falcons nesting

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. As per usual, please do not top-rope directly through anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1986

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab to anchors on ledge, but keep going up the big L-facing corner up high.

FA: J.Smoothy, C.Peisker & S.Moon, 1985

Start just right of FF. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

Warning Fixed Gear: Run-out bolting

Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Baker, 2000

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

Set: Mike Law

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

The next four routes share the same start (two steel rungs as steps to begin).

The left-most route sharing the start of Language, finishing at lower-off beneath rooflet.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

As for LOD to second ring, step L, follow rings (long slings), then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above (rings) where things get interesting. Would be a worthy 23~ to step left and finish at the SWS anchors before questing up on to the face above.

FFA: A secret to be taken to the grave!

Set: Dave Stone

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A medium cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful (BD #1).

The anchor staples are now a bit worn. Lowering shackles added July 2016.

FA: M. Scheel & C. Martin, 1985

Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt.

FA: V.Petersen, 2002


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