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Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Overall the cliffs have seen very little affect from the bushfires. However, the approach has been heavily burned out and care needs to be taken when walking in.

The track down from the carpark is marked with small cairns and pink tape. At the base of the hill cross the bog/marsh via the log bridge and follow the path up to the road.

Please only descend to the cliffs via the Memory Lane walkdown gully as the first gully is extremely loose and at high risk of erosion.

See warning details and discuss

Created 10 months ago

Access: Bells Line Road closure

Bells Line Road between Mt Wilson turn-off and Mt Tomah Botanical Gardens is now closed due to road damage from March 2021 floods. It is expected this road closure will be in place for several months until it can be repaired. There is no road access to Pierces Pass, Mt Banks and Bowens Creek.

See warning details and discuss

Created 20 days ago

Seasonality

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Access issues

Due to the early 2021 high rains/floods, foot access to Stateline Gully is extremely unstable with loose rocks amid loose soil.

If climbing Green Chimney, The Flower-pot Men, Bill, Ben or other climbs on this buttress it is advised to walk down past Thailand Taxidriver.

Approach

A 10 minute walk in from Memory Lane access.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Awesome!!

Start: Obvious.

FA: A.Penney, 1980

May require a modicum of thought!

Start: Slab to the right 2m.

FA: A.Penney, 1980

Doh! Up left side of small corner to top.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Penney, 1980

Cossey?

Start: 2m right again.

FA: G.Robertson, 1980

FA: George Fieg, 1995

Pointless!!!

Start: 60m right of B&L. Right side of the sharp arete on you left as you walk up the gully.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

To roof, across it, up arete.

Start: 5m right of B.

FA: G.Weigand & P.Webber, 1981

Up arete to break, left to end, across and up to arete, up.

Start: 10m right.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1983

Arete.

Start: As for WOB.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981

To break - take care - up.

Start: 25m right of NF.

FA: M.Law, 2000

Direct finish to WLIAB. Good Value!

Start: As for WLIAB, left a little and onto wall, right to arete and up past 2 bolts to top. 2 bolt belay

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1980

Start: Obvious wide crack on the right side of the gully.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1979

Arete and left wall to ledge, walk over mank and choss to top.

Start: 4m right of SL.

FA: B.Cameron & W.Moon, 1979

Crack over roof to ledge, escape left or finish up KtP.

Start: 7m right of BB.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Start: 'Arete' above previous route.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1981

Start: 2m right of OotB, left hand side of shallow square gully.

FA: A.Penney & G.Herbert, 1980

Painful. Aptly named.

Start: 6m right of NP.

FA: M.Law & G.Child, 1980

Corner to roof, left to ledge and up.

Start: 5m right of RHE. (Crunch's Corner start).

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1981

Bridging.

Start: Up wall, bridge corner, right and up.

FA: M.Law & J.Stone, 1979

Up to ledge, stroll across right a bit, around overhang and up wall.

Start: 1.5m right of CC.

FA: M.Moore & P.Webber, 1980

'...typical 'Junkyard' route. Watch out for old car bodies...looks awful but has an interesting start."

Start: 6m right of TtF.

FA: S.Knight & G.Moore, 1980

Spectacular!!!

Start: 3m right.

FA: P.Webber, 1980

Trash!

Start: 6m right.

FA: A.Penney & S.Knight, 1980

Filth to to small gully, left side.

FA: A.Penney, 1980

Right of gully!

FA: G.Dowden, 1980

One of the better routes here! It took a 'brains trust'!

Start: 1m right of C.

FA: P.Webber, G.Winder, S.Knight, A.Penney & R.Taylor, 1980

Start: Yellow bulging wall 8m right of G.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1980

Take seam with bolts - ha ha! - to rejoin KK and up!

Start: As for KK.

FA: G.Weigand & A.Dunn, 1981

One of the best in the area. Do it!!!

Start: 5m right of S.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1980

Solo!

Start: 3m right, wide crack and corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1979

Wall and corner left of roof.

Start: 1m right.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1980

Crack to roof and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Penney, G.Hill, I.Anger & B.Cameron - idiots all!, 1980

Start: 5m right. 'Steep' flakey wall.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1980

Im sure they fought over this one!

Start: 4m right.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1980

May be 'marked' incorrectly - who cares!

Start: On lower ledge 20m right of B. Scramble from track!

FA: P.Webber, G.Moore & G.Winder, 1980

Start: 3m right of M.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

Use tree to get to wall, then flake on wall - bolts - finish left of blocks. Rubbish!

Start: 3m right again.

FA: A.Penney, G.Robertson & G.Bradbury, 1980

Up to flake, up and left to wall and vague rest then slightly right and up.

Start: 3m right again.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Take all your friends with you!

Start: Crack 3m right again.

FA: T.Bernutt & J.Smoothy, 1979

Start: Bolts right.

FA: C, L & Hale, 1995

Start: 4m right of Cosmed!

FA: G.Weigand & M.Moore, 1981

Start: 2m right again.

FA: G.Weigand & M.Moore, 1981

Scramble from track, up, up and a bit right.

Start: On lower ledge 10m right and below the previous route.

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1981

Traverse right, then flakes to ledge below slab, up to roof then off right.

Start: As for KD.

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1980

Marked CC.

Start: 6m right of SP.

FA: T.Bernutt & J.Smoothy, 1979

"A bit of lurching around on monster buckets, with a great finish. The crux is a bit reachy."

Start: 6m right of CC.

FA: A.Penney & G.Smith, 1983

Aparently quite good.

Start: 5m right of HaM, then scramble up 15m to corner.

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams, 1979

Corner.

Start: As for S.

FA: L.Closs, 1979

Crack, cave and pillar. You can make it harder by jamming through the roof!

Start: 2m right of S.

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams, 1979

Bolts to ledge, middle of wall, roof to ledge, up wall. Badly placed pro!

Start: 5m right again.

FA: G.James & T.Harris, 1985

Up and a bit right.

Start: 2m right and below the previous route.

FA: P.Webber & G.Weigand, 1981

Good crack and wall. 'WOB' is marked at track level.

Start: 'Grovel' up to ledge 6m right of SD.

FA: A.Penney & M.Johnston, 1980

...the only 'flared' offwidth at the crag.

Start: Offwidth!

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

"A very difficult start indeed. Some may even find it necessary to use a cheat stone...all may find it necessary."

Start: 3m right of D at overhang.

FA: F.Moon & B.Cameron, 1981

Corner and through shale roof, up a bit left. 2). AS for the previous routes.

Start: Open book 2m right.

FA: B.Cameron & F.Moon, 1981

Corner, left to weakness in overhang, to ledge. 2). Wall and right to crack.

Start: 5m right.

FA: W.Williams & G.Wurth, 1982

"Not really the Leper's finist hour. The kind of route that gives The Leprosarium its name....the few hard moves getting off the ledge give this climb its grade."

Start: 10m right of TI. Big black wall.

FA: G.Dowden & A.Penney, 1980

Solo.

FA: A.Penney, 1981

Solo.

Start: 7m right.

FA: P.Martland, 1981

Up short wall and trudge up corner to wires (bring your own!) deep in the back of the cave above the ferns. 2). Over bulge and to roof, gain corner and up to top.

Start: 12m right of SS.

FA: A.Penney & R.Nelson, 1980

The first pitch of this and the 2nd of the previous route sound like the makings of a classic. Ben Cossey??

Start: 2.5m right.

FA: A.Penney & R.Nelson, 1980

Must have been quite a fight...

Start: Below corner 4m right of HF.

FA: S, B.Moon, T.Williams, L.Closs & R.Bradstock, 1979

As for Bi to where corner becomes vertical, right to wall, break and flake, then up BI. No good pro! Take Care.

Start: As for BI.

FA: A.Dunn, P.Matysek & C.Hamond, 1983

Up wall, through 2nd rooflet, left to arete, up to ledge, right to tree. 2). Finish as for BI.

Start: 7m right of BI.

FA: G.Dowden, 1981

Wall and rooflets as for CU, left to the piton then straight up about 3m right of arete to tree. 2). Up BI.

Start: As for CU.

FA: S.Knight & G.Dowden, 1981

As for CU through 2nd rooflet, right, through overhang, right to arete, up to crack (Boomer). 'Arete' and wall on left to tree. 2). As for BI. No pro!

Start: As for CU.

FA: A.Penney & ?.Proberts (?), 1983

"Can be pleasant" 1sn and 2nd pitches can be combined if you take care of rope drag.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams, 1979

Up the wide scrubby crack, right past small roof to ledge, up, slightly left, diagonally right to tree.

Start: 6m right again.

FA: S.Knight & P.Webber, 1981

"Obvious...starts in a delightful hand crack."

Start: Corner 10m right of B.

FA: F.C.Williams & L.Closs, 1979

Crack on left wall of corner. Right across choss to ledge, through roof to ledge, overhang, right to vorner, up to ledge. Right wall and slab to scrubby ledge, scramble through vegetation to gully and up.

Start: 12m right of AC.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1981

Into small left facing corner, up, right to ledge, right, up, back left, to ledge and cave. 2). Chimney then left,up into right crack then wall.

Start: 25m right of TSoSF.

FA: D.Ismay & R.Taylor, 1980

To roof, left and up corner then crack or wall.

Start: Obvious line 32m right again.

FA: T.Williams, R.Wells & L.Closs, 1980

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Activity

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