Routes in East Faces

Slightly harder (especially if you are short) and even more exposed version of the original Subliminal. Maybe even better than the original?

1. 33m (22) Climb Subliminal pitch 1 to the first belay - but don't stop there! Start up that route's 2nd pitch for 1 bolt then keep traversing hard left along a juggy break above a sucking void all the way to the left arete and hanging belay on the left side of the arete.

2. 60m (23) The spectacular reachy arete for six new bolts then join into Subliminal pitch 2. 25 quickdraws required. That's not a typo.

3. 14m (14) As for Subliminal pitch 3.

It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

1. 20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Prusiks! 8 bolts.

2. 58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete (extender(s)) and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (A few long runners recommended).

3. 14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face (staying away from loose plates of rock) to top ledge. 3 bolts.

If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s.

A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners).

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade!

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave.

P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.

1. 30m (21) Traverse R for 5m then up wall to next small ledge (Subliminal p1). Right again for 2-3m then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. Short climbers will find this is more like grade 22/23. 10 bolts.

2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m on black jugs then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 8 bolts.

3. 20m (20) Arete for 15m then left and up final short headwall. Mantle grass to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like for extra style points) for 6m to arrive where you started at rap chains. 2 bolts.

Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock.

Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws.

I know routes, I have the best routes. Rap in, climb out mini-multi with a similar feel to nearby Subliminal. Brilliant first pitch, average 2nd pitch, good finish pitch. Fix a 70m rope to tree at top of wall and rap over edge (rope protector advised). Rap all the way to end of rope and double bolt belay on left end of small ledge below prominent orange arete. You may want to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay attached to the wall. Bring 15 draws and a few slings for belays.

1. 25m (24) Tremendous immaculate orange arete with a dyno to start. Finish at semi-hanging belay on awkward shelf or link into next pitch. 10ish bolts

2. 17m (18) Juggy arete for 7m then trend right across onto mossy face and up to sandy mantle onto large shelf and belay. 9 bolts.

3. 17m (22) Reachy move straight off the belay then trend right across featured steep face, pop through a small roof to ledge, then final short face to top. Finish by hand over handing up short knotted fixed rope over the lip! 9 bolts.

So much winning. Orange face to the right of pitch 1 of Wrath of Froth sharing same start belay anchors.

1. 25m (24) Hard mantle to start then weave up terrific orange face to small ledge and semi hanging off double belay bolts. 10 bolts.

2. 16m (18) Straight up juggy face to join into Wrath of Froth pitch 2 for the last two bolts. 8 bolts?

3. 17m (22) Same last pitch as for Wrath of Froth.