Routes in Sublime Point for selected grade

Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.

1. 30m (21) Traverse R for 5m then up wall to next small ledge (Subliminal p1). Right again for 2-3m then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. Short climbers will find this is more like grade 22/23. 10 bolts.

2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m on black jugs then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 8 bolts.

3. 20m (20) Arete for 15m then left and up final short headwall. Mantle grass to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like for extra style points) for 6m to arrive where you started at rap chains. 2 bolts.

The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets (avoiding the tree) then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts. Possible (and nice) to continue up p2 of Sundial in one big pitch.

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

1. 20m (21) Carrots, then a couple of rings, then 7+ glue-in carrots to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places. Lower-off, or...

2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. It's exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.

Start up slab the onto black arête and up.

Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag.

An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit.

Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.

1. 27m (12) Chossy corner of sorts to small ledge on the left and old bolt belay.

2. 11m (12) Continue up rambling corner crack to ledge.

3. 22m (21) The steep major left facing corner finishing out right of the big hanging block. This used to be an aid pitch at M4.

4. 50m (12) Easily up trending left.

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad.

Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes.

Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out.

Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far.

Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow, that is now a touch harder since a key hold fell off. The start of this route is shared with the next three routes as well.

Proof no-one climbs trad anymore. Climb Torrential for 12m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot with long sling then committing traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock to bolt belay on shale ledge. Double ropes or long slings make rope drag much more pleasant.

First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first!

The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.

2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.

3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimise rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.

4. 23m (21) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.

5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).