Help

The Noisy Place

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A nice little cliff with some good faceclimbing and a few cracks very close to the car. Pack your bolt plates and a rack.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Drive down Mt York road and past Lawson's Long Alley track head, park opposite an old quarry that is on the right. Walk along road towards Mt York, At the apex of the corner take note of the power pole, approximately 30m past the power pole you should see a rusty barrel just off the left side of the road. Walk into the bush here directly towards the cliff, keep an eye out for a small rock overhang/cliff on your right, follow obvious gulley and rock cairns down to bottom of cliff. Walk right (facing out) to the main blank wall, or head left to the immediately visible orange rock of Goat Buttress.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

View historical timeline

In 2019 Angus Farquhar removed many bolts at this crag in a bid to erase several of his old routes from the early 90s.

© (mjw)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Left side of gully (facing out) Routes from left to right

The first climb on the left side (facing out). Start 4m left of G.O, up past 4 bolts and a distinct reachy crux. #2 and #3 cam for top to hidden lower off anchors.

FFA: E Wells, 19 Jul 2013

Starts at tree stump in middle of the buttress. Begin with a couple of medium sized cams then five bolts up face and through roof. Lower off or even better rap from old chains (that slaughter your rope). Rebolted June 2014

FA: A.Farquar, Murphy & G.Williams, 1990

Best route on the wall. Starts right of tree stumpy. Clip first bolt from twin pocket then hard move leads to #0.5 cam break. Then straight up wall passing 5 more bolts and #2 cam to double ring loweroff.

FFA: Evan Wells, 14 May 2015

Bolts and anchor removed 5/5/19. Kneely There is really near. Farewell Bwian Bwown!

FA: A.Farquar & A.Jones, 1989

Start off teetering cairn into 'Steep' crack. 4m LEFT of Twisted Ash. All the way through top flake in roof. Bring 4 bolt plates. Belay carrots set 6mtrs back from top.

FA: A.Farquar, 1995

Start in left side of alcove, just left of choss wall with roof crack. From corner move left to #2 Friend break, up to BR. Traverse under roof, up past 2 FHs, fixed wire and #3 Friend. Stay on small arete. Lower-off rings at top - all other bolts are originals.

FA: F.Yule & P.Tansley, 1991

Corner/roof right of Twisted Ash. Bring extra #3 & #4. Build belay before last mantle, walk off.

FA: Eric Butler, 25 Jul 2013

5m right of La Dura is an appalling wall of choss capped by a prominent thin roof crack with a single ringbolt on the lip. Might be a project? Looks hard.

The next three routes are approached from the top of goat buttress. About 50 left (facing out) of goatbuttress in a honeycomb alcove with car size blocks nesting above. Move carefully past blocks to 3BB at top of wall. Rap to ledge.

Start: From belay bolt, right arete.

FA: F.Yule & P.Tansley, 1991

Start: From belay bolt. Straight up.

FA: B.Pearse & S.Pearse, 1991

Start: At belay bolt. Left, then straight up.

FA: F.Yule & P.Tansley, 1991

The next few routes are back at ground level, and 20m right of Twisted Ash. Either balance around the shale ledge or come in from below. The wall is south facing so gets shade until 4pm.

Line of carrots, pfh 45 degree hangers essential, some fiddly clips, up to DRB over top. best climbed as a top out (last route) from here its 2 min to car.

FFA: H Sutherland, 5 Sep 2013

Line of carrots directly above belayers R.B, up to thin crux (FH) and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 5 Sep 2013

Continuation of crack in middle of wall to top. Passing two carrots and a good horizontal (med cams) near top. Tree anchor set 10m back hence 50m route length.

stiff start start right of crack (1st ascentionist unknown?) one carrot to line of FH's & lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 5 Sep 2013

A short but perfectly vertical wall just right side of approach gully (facing out). Routes listed right to left.

Arete on far right end of this cliff, nearest the access gully. Start easily up ledges then swing through roof and up spicy arete.

FA: G.Williams & A.Farquar, 1990

all bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

All bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1994

All bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

Not a great warmup! Mixed face route with one very hard move that is harder than anything on the 24 to the left. Medium wire and small cam to bolted finish (FH at crux). No anchor - scramble through tree and top-out or just lower off last bolt.

FA: A.Farquar & A.Jones, 1989

Excellent orange face with a distinct crux. Hard committing start (or stick clip) and past 4 FHs to anchor chain over top (or use lower offs on the 24 to the left). This is still a mixed route and requires medium size cams.

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

Line of u's to lower off , L of CPC. Technical

Set by E. Wells

FFA: E. Wells, 7 Jun 2014

Hairline crack with one bolt at the start (where the heinous sandbag crux lives). The top is just good fun well protected pods. Lower-off anchors at the top.

FA: A.Farquar, A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

Super contrived bolted face just left of Endotoxic Shock. Appears to share many holds but stays away from that routes crack.

FA: B.Pearse, 1991

All bolts and anchors removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1991

Neat but not three stars. The orange streak right of DFD. Originally bolted and being worked by Frey Yule in 91 before 2 visiting Poms stole it. Old bolts, new lower-offs.

Rattly finger crack splitting the face, quite unique and sustained for the mountains. Sling a tree to rap/lower off and retrieve easily on way back up track.

FA: M.Baker, 1990

Corner crack on left end of wall. Layback or jam - you choose.

FA: A.Farquar, 1989

Black arete 2m left of The Crunched Dog with two rusty carrots

FA: G.Williams & A.Farquar, 1990

Start: Undercut left of GE&H. Dyno first move.

FA: A.Farquar & B.Pearse, 1989

Start: 20m left of GE&H. Slab. Right hand route.

FA: A.Jones & A.Farquar, 1989

Start: 2m left again.

FA: A.Jones & G.Williams, 1991

Start: Left end of the slab.

FA: G.Williams & A.Farquar, 1990

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Noisy Place.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文