Forum
Photos
Help

Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

All the climbs at the left hand end of the crag from the Cheap Dive area to just before the base of Engineers Cascade.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

Grovel up wide crack or bolted undercut arete on the left then dawdle up 5m of ledges to begin the real climbing on the left wall. Orange scoops then head out to the arete (shared with Cheap Skate) and then back on to the wall to finish at lower-offs. All Ubolts - no bolt plates required.

FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

Hard first moves. Mixed with double lower off. Great adventure climbing.

FA: G Short & P Mort, 2005

To groove and up . . .

Start: At cairn.

FA: G Mortimer & W King, 1990

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

Start at the base of short chimney marked HJ. Need big gear for the start. Trad anchor or tree belay.

FA: H Bevan & G Owens, 1971

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac

FA: Unknown, 2000

Very short but very steep (85deg???) finger crack. Finger jams are good but footwork is limited. Back clean.

FA: Jacques Beaudoin, 9 Dec 2019

Unique ascent. Exceptionally steep cranking for 1972!The obvious roof/offwidth. Often a watercourse. Up first 5 meters with difficulty then tight body squeeze in roof, unprotected unless you have a big..big bro. Consider hanging gear from waist or sending a rope down for it after chimney. Then awkward (for the 50th time) chimney to large chockstone. Good horizontal on right face then over top to gully. Good tree another 15 meters back.

FA: B.Price G.Owens, 1972

FFA: M . Dunstan, 1977

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

A most mighty line...

Start through short cross band and into corner crack and up past some greenery to the roof crack. Traverse out to lip and up short headwall to ledge and belay. Rap off or continue up easier corner to top and tree belay.

FFA: R Young & A Prehn, 1980

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 28 Oct 2012

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

Has additional mallion on right anchor bolt for lowering to stop rope twisting.

FFA: Evan Wells, 4 Nov 2012

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

Another chimney

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文