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1 10 15m
2 19 20m
3 19 15m

description

An unlikely trad route up an arete and thin crack. Well protected despite appearances.

  1. 15m (10) Pitch 1 of Fer De Lance to belay on ledge at DBB

  2. 20m (19) Out right to arete (sling jug!) then up incipient seam that eats wires to ledge. It's possible to rap off here from ringbolts above Giggles.

  3. 15m (19) Up the short steep crack on right (unpleasant one move wonder) to top - Taipan Variant is a much better finish.

Route history

1975First ascent: K.Bell & I.Thomas

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.59696, 150.24751

Grade citation

10, 19, 19 Assigned grade
17 Iain Duggin
19 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
19 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
19 ** ACA Route Register
19 Blue Mountains Climbing

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 76 from 48 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 26
Flash 2
Red point 1
Tick 24
Target 2

Comment keywords

pockets arete interesting fingers fiddly roof face crack easy crimpy difficult solid dangerous committing fun fantastic nice great awesome classic superb exciting super good beautiful

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