Routes in Wade's World

8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab.

Named after the internationally toured show of Penny Arcade. See Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitch!Dyke!Faghag!_Whore!

Start as for FtF. Right at BR to small cam on right. Join EaD on right of spiky bush (medium cam).

Start at burnt grasstrees 2m left of TSaH. Slab (cam, BR, wire) to ledge. 2 FHs up flake to jug (BR). Up left to break (#4 rock and medium cam) & scoop. Two BR, sling, FH and cams through headwall to cvams and BB above 'beak'.

Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.

Another almost a sport route up the excellent wall. This was the only route given 3 stars at Wades World in the original '90s SRC guidebook. Climb the dark slab (wires, bolt, cams) to ledge. Up and slight right (3 bolts). Up and slight left (2 bolts). Two more bolts gains the small ledge and bolt belay.

The main line of the wall with a spectacular line of orange scoops in the upper half. Unfortunately some of the holds can be a bit dirty from the runoff from above - but this is easily brushed off on lead. Start up the major right facing corner (good medium cams) and mantle onto ledge (optional belay on double bolts). Blast up the bolt protected orange wall above to belay on ledge off burnt out trees (!). It would be totally possible to lead the top section as a sport route if you rapped in to the ledge above the corner.

Good clean fun and mostly only grade 20. This is almost a sport route - only a couple of bits of trad required in the easy sections. Climb the slab squeezed between the corner and the flake (cams and bolt) to small ledge. Blast up the water washed scoops above past many bolts. A cam or so protects the last easy jugs to the belay ledge (use burnt trees!).

Remarkable wall climbing at the grade. Easily up flake crack (wires) to small ledge. Big cam and a wire in the break protects the short wall to reach the first bolt. Finish up mega orange juggy face past another 5 bolts. A sling protects the last couple of metres to top. Belay off two bolts on the edge of the ledge or the rap chain above the left end of cave. Rebolted 2022.

Starts just right of AWATR. Slab past BR. Slight right to traverse line. 15m right (?!) to line of monster jugs. Up to cave (cams & bolt belay). Wires and cams.