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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

© (mjw)

Description

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Approach

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest.

© (mjw)

Where to stay

Mt York campground is closest spot to stay.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Ring-bolted lonely line just to left of the descent gully. Goes alright and a reasonable addition to the area. Needs to be cleaned up a lot.

A good looking line.

Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.

Start: 4m right.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.

FA: G Short, P Mort & J Smoothey

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

FA: J Short & P Mort

Is this Top Stopper of the 2015 Bluies Guide? Surely climbed before 2013.

  1. 16m (12) Corner then crack in wall to veg ledge. Belay from thread or extend runners and proceed...

  2. 17m (16) Corner and crack to tree.

FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan & Mike Patterson, 1994

Marked. to the right of Krell

Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.

FA: Unknown, 2000

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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