Fargoid Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 1




Beyond the Chili Boulder are a collection of boulders and cliffs that have been climbed throughout a few eras. Is now being rediscovered along with lots of new problems

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


As for the Wolf Cave description, or down the historical Cox's road. It makes a nice round trip.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


History timeline chart

Clearly, lots of stuff has been done in the past. We want to try to keep the grading true to outdoor V grades rather than softer gym grades, so those V0 and V1's may be stiff compared to your local indoor climbing center.



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Grade Route

From the sit-down start head left around the prow

Sit start and then up to obvious finish jug on nice flat holds

Sit start and then right around prow finishing at obvious hold on right-hand wall

sit start and then over to the far left and mantle

Sit start, from break up past two pockets left to obvious jug

Sit start middle of wall, side pull pocket and crimp to victory jug

Barely V0 but you do get rather high off the ground...left hand side of the chimney to massive finish jug...downclimb a bit and jump or downclimb the chimney - undoubtedly not the first ascent

Sit start on right side around nose and mantle in the middle

Sit start left side of boulder, short traverse to same mantle exit as TNIHAM

Sit down start - climb the arete and then insecure to topout, take lots of matts

Sit down start from left hand side of arete middle of the wall under arete and then up right hand wall to top out.

straight up left hand wall of the arete

Shorter version of HOC starting closer to left hand side prow on first big holds

Anonymous arete but judging by the wear marks on the rock looks like V3 or V2 ish...straight up the arete with rockover to a long reach

Starting on the arete up right hand wall to top out with a high step

Up right side of slab

Straight up middle of boulder

Up left side of boulder

Sit start, follow spine to top

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