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The Witch Area

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Description

The first area encountered when walking up the slab.

Approach

Up the obvious slab. The first large egg-shaped boulder you see is The Witch boulder.

Routes

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Grade Route

A funky sit start on the pointy boulder leads to a unique crux of technical footwork wizardry to gain the good stance. Top out directly up from there. (left of the bolt) Heady!

Line stays strictly straight, moving over to the right makes you a Witch, not a Wizard

Stand start on the left of the face on good edges. Desperate top out.

Sit start on heinous crimps down low and up to good edges (stand is V2). Scary/desperate top out. Originally graded V9, closer to a solid V7 with some alternative beta.

https://youtu.be/hBcOwnYLYOM?t=92

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start on the good edge on the right and then trend left to top out as The Witch.

Start on crimps on the left and long move to nipple pinch.

FA: Jason Girdlestone

Jump start to the obvious edge with desperate finish. Classic.

Warm ups on the back of the slab boulder. Option for a sit start with the deep flake on the right.

Up the face. Slippery now due to graffiti unfortunately

Start on the far left, low on the slopers of the slab and traverse right to finish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UioHwCiqKAg

Sit start on the poor crimps and low foot. Big throw to the arete and then follow the arete right and up. Second problem in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drTyjLhY7Ds

FA: Robin Muller, 2010

A dingy low ball crack, on the back side of the boulder, with an optional invert to spice things up.

FA: Alex Leslie, Mar 2021

Pretty much a lay down start on a jug with your foot jammed higher than your head. Exit the opposite direction of Not Worth it.

FA: Connor Teophil, May 2021

Stand start on tiny rows of crimp. Mainly a 1 to 2 move wonder to a jug to easy ground.

Not sure who is the FA but it looks to have been done before but is not in the topo. If someone knows the name or the FA please let me know and I can change accordingly.

Sit start with obvious jug flake. Long move up.

Looks well worn but can't find the info for it - please update if you know more.

Sit start as for Panic Button but go up the faint right arete instead. A few hard moves lead to easier ground.

Sit start on right and traverse left on slopers to direct. Scary. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0Pvu89dOvQ

Jump to the lip on the left corner to a desperate and scary mantle.

High-ish start on left hand edge and a right hand crimpy pinch.

Stand start on interesting holds and the single edge for your feat

FA: Alex Leslie, Mar 2021

Sit start and pull up the crack

FA: Alex Leslie, Mar 2021

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