Probably the best bolted area of Boya Quarry, especially given the recent bolting efforts and new routes, such as Special Forces and Full Metal Racket.


The most easterly part of the crag. Find the bid blue 'S'.



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Warning Fixed Gear: 2nd bolt missing

Warning, 2nd bolt broke off (Feb 2019), in doubt if the other once are fine. Smear your way up the dirty corner system approximately 2 m left of Modern Tactics, clipping some of the manky carrots along the way. Traverse left under roof an place pro in roof crack (optional) and reach next bolt. 2 more bolts lead to BR loweroffs. The top is where the fun is!

FA: J. Truscott & M. Rosser, 2003

Starts 10 m left of Hell's Bells and Mademoiselles. Take a #2 or #3 cam plus smaller gear (optional) for reaching second carrot. Be careful of where you place gear (especially cams) as a lot of the big flakes seem a little loose. Beware especially of triangular block above the large flake. Okay climbing at the bottom leads to a fun finish!

FA: M. Rosser, J. Truscott & N. Gledhill, 2001

Lots of traversing left with two ledges to rest on and a strenuous mantle finish.

FA: J. Truscott & B. Aikman, 2001

Start as for HB&M, but go right past RB, through cracked overlap, steep wall above, then finish with traverse left to ledge and lower-offs (crux). 4 RBs, plus small nut(s) between 1st and 2nd RB. There are some historical bolt holes near the end, by others.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 1 Jun 2016

Starting 3m R of SF, this routes features insecure footwork, large flakes and a devious top-out. 4 RBs to lower-offs.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 1 Jun 2016

Great moves but the top of this route gets covered in mud. It may be a good idea to traverse in from the belay of BMU and clean the top with a rag first! Named after the graffiti near the start, with a couple of puns built-in. 4 FH to lower-offs.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 1 Jun 2016

Thought-provoking boulder moves. Don’t get sucked into the orange stuff on left, there is no need. 3 FH to lower-offs.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 1 Jun 2016

Trad route, not long but for sure fun. Traverse the slab to push up to the crux, easy from there.

FA: Michael Bowers


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