A varied and good-quality crag with numerous moderate routes and easy access.

© (hotgemini)


Park in the large, obviously signed 'Point Pure' look-out carpark, walk 150 metres to the look-out, turn left and follow path around to gully and into the right-most end of the crag.

© (hotgemini)


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Grade Route

Start R of DJA. Four BRs with a slight left trend in the top half. Tricky start and finish.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2004

Start as for the original. At second BR, move R to break (gear) then up to BR and top.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne & Ben Carter, 2004

More forgettable climbing on the access path.

Start: Just right of obvious overhang.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

moderate but runout climbing on wall adjacent to the devoid cave.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipeline feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip. Then up to recently installed rap station

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Continue past anchor and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.

FFA: Steve Kloske & Henk Morgans, Oct 2013

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

Climb up the sharp arete on some cool pockets. Take a deep breath and get greeted by a insane, fun(type 2) lip boulder problem. The lip makes this a cool little route to try. The mono is not in, that is an old drill hole that needs patching. Originally bolted by G Page and Chucky. Many thanks to them for their hard work and vision.

Set: Graham Page & chucky, 2009

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 23 Apr 2014

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

FA: Joe Driver, 2009

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

FA: Phil Box, 2008

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2010

Starting on little platform, up into awkward corner and sandy ear past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, Chris Gibson, Alice Fletcher & JJ O'Brien, 2008

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

FA: Guy Pearce; Chester & 2nd Guy Pearce, 1990

Subtle arete with shallow gritty scoops and slab to finish. Technical with a gritstone feel. There used to be a tree growing next to this route and one of the bits of pro was slinging it's branch! The tree is now long gone and its now protected by 4 ringbolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one into vegetation. The top needs a clean.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1990

Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear.

FFA: jjobrien, 2010

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

A variant to a 4 metre route?

This climb is actually called Stone Merino

FA: Chester & 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RBs to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.

FA: Craig Pohlman Andrew Audsley, 2004

Starts up pebbles and arches left across the wall to Reverse Pyschology's anchor

Set: Alex Turnbull, Daniel Gordon & Jonathon Schwartz, Jun 2013

FFA: Sam Bowman, 3 Mar 2014

Climb the flaming vag of mordor to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of reverse psych. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Set: Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, Sep 2012

Climb reverse psych and then blast right out of the off width into the pebble belt. finishes the same as 'di brenender mush don mordor'. Gonna be awesome, get on it.

Set: Lee cujes, Dan gordon, damo rua & alex Turnbull, Sep 2012

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Set: Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, Sep 2012

FFA: Sam Bowman, 6 Oct 2014

Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness to break. Final sandy crack leads to anchors.

Start: Walk along ledge to access.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

On the Steep wall under Reverse Psychology ledge.

Set: Antoine Moussette & Graham Page, Jun 2013

FA: Henk Morgans, 3 Aug 2013

Links into the classic grade 13 'The great barrier reef'.

Start: Start at furthest protruding part of ledge at DBB.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1991

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

FA: Dave Whitworth & Michael Long, 1993

A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FHs and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

FFA: Lee & Sam Cujes, 2008

Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big pocket, is visible from the ledge.

Start: Start at left end of overhang below overhanging block.

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

Start 2m right of ICSJ. Easily climb up to ledge, before it steepens and moves left across face on rings to a blank and intimidating finish. There are two options after the 6th? bolt. Either move left and up blankish looking wall (grade 21) or move right onto MD and finish up that. Both are good.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 2000

This is the climb you do when you don't read the guidebook and go the wrong way on Cold Fusion, and end up linking up the top of ICSJRHV instead of MD (pretty sure I'm not the first to do this). Fun though.

FFA: Mattias McAndrew, 16 Apr 2018

Now an independent route! Starts right under ICSJ, and climbs the rings to ledge. Big, stupid runout to the third RB, before climbing straight up the white streak with a technical move near the top. Fun climbing, but beware the runouts in a few places.

Start in corner at stump, and climb the FHs to ledge. Move left and follow the line of FHs to top. Very runout between 4th and 5th bolt, so take a wire.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

Very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

Up the slab (RB) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above (be careful between 2nd and 3rd bolt). Up the lichenous face (RBs) to arrive at the headwall. There are two options here. If you climb the left line of bolts it is grade 19. If you climb the bolted corner (the right line of bolts at the top) you have climbed the 22 version. Rebolted.

Start: Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2003

Exciting start moves followed by pleasant jug haul to top. Requires bolt plates. One bolt is too close to the rock to accept a plate, but is in an easy section close to another bolt so protection is OK.

Start: Not sure if there has been some rockfall, but it no longer seems safe to traverse onto the starting platform from the left. Accessible by climbing up the first two bolts of Overhanging Corner.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

FA: Gareth Llewellin & John Taylor, 2006

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne & Ben Carter, 2004

Not good.

Start: Initialled

The FH's up the massive flakes. Rap chain at top. The rock looks okay, but the big flakes on this are pretty creaky and fragile. Fun, but belayer beware.

Start: Initialled. 1.5m left of Sunny day.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 1999

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.

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