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Description

This is a good area to fill in a few hours at the end of the day. The access is a relatively easy fifteen minute walk.

Approach

Approach from the signposted walking track. The track heads south from the gravel road that leads into the campground (just before the road reaches the camping ground).

Epic block At the orange arrow and burnt out stump head R up the hill. The best path is 3 meters before the orange arrow.

Where to stay

Lake Catani campground is nearby.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: 1999

L-leaning crack at the R hand side of the block. when the crack finishes, either slab boldly to chains, or step R into groove to chains. Great climbing

FA: Mike Law & Simon Kenny, 1977

link up. Startup Glace, then traverse R past 3 bolts to UtBHH, finish up this.

FA: 1999

Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

The offwidth roof crack visible from the walking track. Crux is at the lip to easier wide crack above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Crack on the other side of the track from 'Plaything'.

FA: Kyle Crassini, 2000

An excellent overhanging hand crack.

This route can be hard to locate because it faces out into the valley. The best option is to locate Homer's Butt Crack; Hand vice is the same split but in the other side of the boulder. From Homer's Butt Crack, walk back down the track to find find a gap through the boulders that you can walk through. A short scramble takes you to the route.

FA: Nic Taylor & Peter Watson, 1976

The R arete, R of Join The Dots. Up pasts 3BR's.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Keith Edgerton & David Lia, 1978

Starts approximately in centre of face, a few metres R of Epic. The crack, then slab past 1BR and 1RB.

Set: kim carrigan & john smoothy, 1978

Starts L of centre of face. Slab past 3BR's and 1RB to top. poorly bolted

Set: Peter Weber, 1980

up crack on LH side of the block, then slab up blunt arete passing 2? carrots to top.

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