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Eurobin Falls

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Summary

Easy to get to (only 15 minute drive from Porepunkah), a range of unique trad, and mixed climbs, picturesque and a great spot for a swim.

© (willmonks)

Description

The rap anchor above 'Muscle Beach' was fixed December 2010.

© (willmonks)

Approach

(10-15 minutes) The first crag going up the mountain. Park at Eurobin falls carpark, follow tourist path to the upper Eurobin Falls lookout (750m) take climbers track L down to the bottom of the waterfall. Climbs are desribed left to right.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Excellent protection and shade until 1pm. Mantle on ledge left of Mother of pearl. Follow the arete/ chimney to the left of Mother of Pearl. Rap off trees (1 rope) or continue across to Llafnwood rap station (2 ropes). Climb is a little dirty, but climbs well for the grade.

FFA: Damien Bell & Kyle Weatherman, 7 Oct 2018

FA: 7 Oct 2018

1 14 20m
2 12 35m
3 40m
4 35m
5 12 45m

Unless you rap off first pitch you will need 2 ropes to descend.

  1. (20m, 14) Follow the corner/ crack up to trees. Takes lots of small gear (can rap off here from trees).

  2. (35m, 12) Slab up the corner to gear belay OR traverse to Llafnwood rap station. Recommended to combine these pitches.

  3. 40m Up corner and slab to ledge with rap anchor.

  4. 35m Traverse the ledge to the right past the bushes, then follow cracks up and left. Belay above rap anchor below overlap (green and purple camalots).

  5. 55m Three options. 5.a. (45m, 12) Traverse left to corner, follow it up. 5.b. (50m, 10) Original unprotected slab line directly above belay following ridge. 5.c. (55m, 10) Head right from belay, mantle onto slab, and up passing two bolts.

Descent: Rap station tucked under the large boulder at the top (10m right of the overhanging wall). A 60m rap gets you to another station at the top of pitch 4. Then it's 30m to top of pitch 3, or 63m to top of pitch 2 - you may come up short depending how stretchy your ropes are. Then 50m top of pitch 2 to to ground.

Now with 3 bolts and a rap station at 45m. Still a bold start, but makes for a great climb. Place a high runner in the corner of MoP, then delicate traverse across slab to good holds, then up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff

"Probably the best slick slab in Victoria". Originally had only 4 bolts, retrobolted by Mikl Dec 2010. Start: Start 5m R of TR at left facing flake. Up to rap station, eay climbing above this to join MoP or rap off.

FA: Michael Law & Maureen Gallagher, 1983

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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