Routes in Mount Buffalo

Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts.

2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.

these 2 routes are a short scrub bash down from CS. they look like they would climb well, however, need a good old fashioned clean

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

Crimp up the middle of the face.

rap off tree to stance and double bolt belay (probably easier to leave a fixed-line).

This route has a big-time feel for a short route.

Step up and L across the void (gear available). Follow carrot bolts up the exposed clean slab. Horizontal break leads to a very mossy slab (carrot) and the top.

up the short groove with natural pro, then stepping onto the delicate arete.

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

There is a grade 17 crack on the block 40m below 'On Remand' facing back toward the main cliff (i.e facing east).

Don't bother.

1. 25m. Up Arachnophobia to a ledge at 5m, then up R on dyke and traverse past Schiaparelli to belay below a crack.

2. 25m. Keep traversing

easy hand crack leads to thought-provoking climbing and a carrot bolt to keep it tame. trad belay (medium cams)

Hand crack below bell boys bereavement. rap 100m down from the top of LGL to the base of this crack.

Best long easy slab at Buffalo, Easy slab climbing up a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hexes or tricams are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground.

Stash a bicycle near the top beforehand, for an easy way back down to retrieve the car afterwards.

Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here, tape on tree to mark start a bit further right. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes, there are some small cairns and yellow tapes. You solo an easy slab, then there is a tree with double yellow tapes on it, go right here to the start The climb takes about 1 or 2 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

Basically 4 or 5 pitches up a black streak up a buttress. Then an easy traverse 20m right to a black streak up the next buttress for 3 pitches, then 2 easy finishing walk/scramble pitches.

1. 35m (8) Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR, to belay in a big scoop off a single bolt and gear.

2. 25m (8) Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop.

3. 40m (13) Go right up a dyke to a poor sling runner, up to BR, and then past another sling to a double bolt belay in a scoop.

4. 40m (13) Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R 6m to a sling and bolt belay.

5. 45m (12) Walk back left 6m to black streak and up past BR, to 2 bolt belay..

6. 50m (11) Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to double bolt belay.

7. 45m (10) Up streak past gear in scoops and one BR to bolt belay.

8. 40m (8) Head up slightly rightwards (~ 12.30 o'clock direction) past 3 bolts, and up white slab to double bolt belay on ledge.

9. 100m (4) Continue scrambling in the 1 o'clock direction up the dirty slabby buttress to the "Great Walk" track.

Step across the gap (preferably clipping a BR first), then traverse left. Clip another BR before climbing around the nose and then up.

Medium cams in crack then slab past 3 FH and BR to top. Has rap anchors.

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

companion corner to Beowulf, but not as good, nor as well protected.

Probably harder than a 12!

1. 24m (15) As for Il Duce p1.

2. 30m (21) As for Il Duce p2.

3. 45m (25) As for 'El Supremo' p1.

4. 25m (23) As for 'El Supremo' p2.

5. 30m (25) As for 'Lebensraum' p2.

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

Avoid the crux of the original Qartz Route. Instead of stepping left onto first belay, go Right along a thin crack to poor belay on the ramp.

Abseil from trad gear about 8m to the right of the anchors atop 'Glossop Skins', down over the traverse of 'The Initiation', to a semi-hanging belay off two bolts in a gently-angled scoop. Easy slabbing past a couple of bolts, then up through the traverse of 'The Initiation' (BR), to gain a rightward-leaning groove (wires and small/medium cams). When this fizzles out, head up via three bolts (crux) to the top.

Flaring crack on the left before you enter the gulch. Don't get it confused with Jaws (which is in the Gulch on the left) otherwise you're gonna have a bad time!

Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.