Routes in Mount Buffalo for selected grade

Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' .

Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab.

Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay

The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding

2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD.

The arete R of TWSPD. The unprotected start means this is more often top-roped than led. Head right to arete then up dyke and onto left wall. Up past BR to the top.

Start up BB, at ledge climb crack through roof-let with some difficulties, then continue wrestling your way to finally join BB at the belay.

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

A terrific free climb with one single bit of aid doing a crack transfer to start the second pitch. Pitch lengths are approximate. Havin a few #1 camalots makes the route much more pleasant (HB suggests taking 6!).

Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted (carrots) hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree.

1. ~40m (22, crux) Up the right facing, thin hands corner. This eases from vertical to slab as the corner arcs to the right and the crack thins. Hanging belay on two vintage carrot bolts.

2. ~30m (19) Lower from the belay and swing over to transfer to the mega-flake to your right. Climb this on perfect hands jams while ignoring the sound that it makes every time you slide a cam in. Continue through a couple of seams to a small stance near a tree.

3. ~20m (20) Up the crack to where it peters. Slab left past an antique bolt and hanger and into the next crack system. Belay approximately on the slab to the left before the crack goes vertical.

4. ~30m (21) The vertical crack. A burly move or two and then head hard left back to your clove hitched rap rope and eventually your starting gum tree. There is probably some other ways to finish this pitch directly up to the lookout but the convenience of cleaning up the rap rope on the way outweighed the value of a few more meters of vertical climbing for us.

The best way to do The Establishment. The direct start, and follow the dyke feature all the way up.

1. 30m (16): The Direct Start to the base of the corner.

2. 25m (20): Up corner to HBB.

3. 40m (22): Up corner, follow dyke to to passing bolt at crux steep section.

A stunning line, and quite smooth jamming (for Mt Buffalo). A couple of #3 Camalots, a #4 and even a #5, or equivalent sized cams, would be useful. The first pitch is 'the business' but the much easier (technically) second pitch is tight, awkward and virtually devoid of protection.

1. 24m. The crack to a ledge.

2. 24m. Squirm up the chimney, traverse left to the large chockstones.

3. 27m Up.

Starts down right from Time Passage and takes the arete that is just right of that climb. Easiest approach is to scramble down to the top of the arete and abseil from the double bolt anchor. Climb up (BR), right to arete (BR), then up this (BR).

P1) Climb as for Comeback Trail, then instead of traversing under the roof, head out left in the obvious finger crack to the ledge. Build belay in the vertical crack.

P2) up the steep mossy crack on the big flakes, then pull up into the Groove and top out. Harder than it looks, but cleaning some moss out might reveal some good holds in the crack.

FA unknown, but I highly doubt nobody has ever done it before.

2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.

10m left of the 'Gorge Heritage Walk' sign near the oval is a faint path; this takes you to a large boulder perched on the edge of the cliff. Rap in from tree at top to semi hanging belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.

Up the crack which gradually increases in size from small fingers to #1 camalot; the location of the crux will depend on your hand size.

Doubles of small/medium cams.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 40m (21) As for She.

2. 40m (21 M1)

3. 35m (22)

4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

1. 22m (12 M3)

2. 25m (22)

3. 12m (20)

4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 27m (- M3)

3. 18m (- M4)

4. 30m (- M6)

5. 40m (- M7)

6. 40m (- M5)

7. 40m (- M4)

8. 30m (- M3)

9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

HB

Start as for Heaven on a Stick.

1. The hand crack to sling a pinnacle to belay.

2. (crux). Slab past 2BRs

Start up the hand crack (as for 'Not the Done Thing'), then follow the undercut crack leftwards.

Looking at campsite 28, walk about 10-15m into the bush to the couple of boulders. The right taller boulder starting on the arete, with a 3 finger pocket high right and a side pulling crimp left, head straight up for a slaby and messy finish

The flake-crack on the outcrop below Paradox.

1. Up past 2 BRs then natural gear.

link up. Startup Glace, then traverse R past 3 bolts to UtBHH, finish up this.

Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

The obvious horizontal flake from left to right

3m right of Seven Veils (and 8m left of Sultan). Up.

Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left.

These cracks which don't quite reach the ground or the top are quite obvious from the walk up.

2008 VCC update: "Is graded 21 in the guide and really should be 22 according to John Schwerdfeger. He want you to know that it is also quite BOLD!"

From VCC 2008 update: "Improved route description from Ian Anger: "It’s a line from a Cold Chisel song: They’ll transplant his arse on his shoulders". The buttress between Kraut and Talbingo. (1) 55m (22) Head up the centre of the slab past 2 BR to RHS of the steepening. Pass bulge via 3 BR then paddle up easily till it’s possible to dive into the crack on L and belay off cams. (2) 40m (20) Dive out of crack and head straight up past BR above ledge."

1. 40m Start on Initiation for 15m, move left then up past 5 carrots to double carrot belay.

2. 35m Straight up past 4 carrots to abseil chains.

From the bottom of the blunt right arete of the same buttress that Spooky and Spunky ascend, climb up via 6 FHs to the shared rap anchor.

The right arête of the west-most face. A cruxy start. An optional cam for the upper groove (just R of the arete) is useful.

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

The east face of the 'This Is Not Our Land' boulder, and opposite to 'Beware the Strathbogie'. Two carrot bolts.

Right hand start on sloper, slap to top

Up the prow direct

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.