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Summary
Granite
This crag has a good concentration of moderate routes that are easy to access, which can be rare at Mt Buffalo. It also offers great views of a small tarn and down over Lake Catani.
Approach
3+ hour
Park at the toilet block opposite the Cathedral. Take the stairs up the hill heading north-east, take the right fork to The Castle. The formal track finishes below Phoenix. Head down around to the right passing some boulders to access the ledge where Silver Girl starts.
Scramble through, over, and around the boulder field to access The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging area, and if you are keen, continue around the base to access the other mystery routes.
Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo
Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.
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Photos Browse all photos
Karen Jenkin on ★ Tears Begin To Fall 13 - You got to love cracks at Buffalo
Simon Dale on ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle 20 - Another day of Buffalo slab climbing