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Summary

This crag has a good concentration of moderate routes that are easy to access, which can be rare at Mt Buffalo. It also offers great views of a small tarn and down over Lake Catani.

Approach

Park at the toilet block opposite the Cathedral. Take the stairs up the hill heading north-east, take the right fork to The Castle. The formal track finishes below Phoenix. Head down around to the right passing some boulders to access the ledge where Silver Girl starts.

Scramble through, over, and around the boulder field to access The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging area, and if you are keen, continue around the base to access the other mystery routes.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the inclined crack to tree, then up face to top. Walk off at rear right.

New anchor installed Dec 2010 (also services Jocey and the Pussycats).

Up ramp and crack to steep double crack finish. Belay from block behind and rap from rings above Silver Girl to descend.

up the short groove with natural pro, then stepping onto the delicate arete.

crack L of Butterflies are Doodle. Bridge up between crack and pillar placing gear in the crack, then step into the crack to top and rap chains.

FA: jack jane & Peter Holmes, 11 Nov 2018

Clip BR before leaving ground. Straight up, clipping FH and BR on the way. Medium cams available in flake to right. Domey top-out and rap chain on right.

Now has 1 carrot at half-height, followed by some small to medium cams in horizontal and a bolted belay. Abseil possible.

Up crack and slab to mantle topout. Rap from chains above Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route).

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