A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around
Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:
'Maharajah' (17**)
Bloodknok (17**)
'Sultan' (20***)
Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.
Sunrunner (22**)
The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.
'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)
Substance Abuse (24***)
The Dreaming (23***)
© (jgoding)It's about half way from 'Lake Catani' / The Chalet to the Horn (at the end of the road). Obviously visible from the road.
Follow the Cathedral/Hump walking track. Continue until the first switchback beneath the Cathedral. At this point a path is visible which will take you to the eastern and northern faces (Sultan, Maharajah etc). Carry on for southern face (The Pinch etc.).
© (jgoding)Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionMark Betts on ★★★ Maharajah 17 - Found this in the archives, memories of a great weekend
Eamonn and Louis on ★★★ Maharajah 17 - IMG_4971.jpg