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Crack of Anguish area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8
9

Seasonality

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Approach

Take the walking track up to the Cathedral, then skirt around the base of it, until you can descend a vegetated gully to reach the top of the Crack of Anguish Buttress.

Routes False Memory/Tranquility/Total Recall are best accessed by creating a natural gear abseil at the far end of the buttress.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

This route must have been done previously; please change details if you know them. A #4 camalot comes in handy, but not essential.

Abseil in as for Tranquility.

Follow the crack 4m L of Tranquility. Expect a range of different crack sizes, and some helpful face holds. And some moss.

FA: jack jane & benwiessner, Dec 2021

Step R from tree into thin crack. Up and L until scoop and carrot bolt. Up steeper wall on good edges and 2 more carrot bolts to join TR at the top.

FA: Nick Ping & Glen Donohue, 2001

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