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Summit Rim

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Approach

Banana Blasé is directly below the bolts to lookers right of the glider ramp, and Home James rap is on the (lookers) right side of the big big boulder just past Banana

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay as for Home James.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Murray, 2005

FFA: Kevin Lindorff

Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James.

FA: Bob Coran, Luke Fitzridge & Ryan Butler, 2000

Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires.

To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts.

Set: James McIntosh

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1994

Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Will Monks, 2005

Classic hard slab climbing.

To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2005

A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase.

Rap down the route (fixed hangers 10m right facing out of the hang-gliding ramp.) Layback your way up the stylish flake, step right to crack and delicately up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Giles Bradbury, Geoff Gledhill & Glenn Tempest, 1977

2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD.

Approximately 20 metres before the hang glider lookout on the cliff edge there is a large car-sized boulder with a triangular gully next to it. Rap in down the gully to a large platform. On the left of the platform (looking out) there is steepish ramp with 3 cracks in it. The right 2 cracks are Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight. Mostly good protection, run-out at top.

Rap off at far right side of echo point lookout. Climb is a ramp going from right to left (looking out) and the brown streak at the top is approximately middle of the climb. Rap in to ledge follow obvious diagonal line. No pro, good holds

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