Devilled Cream Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 69




Continue past mushroom rock for another 5 or so minutes. Through the gap between face and large boulder, and across the steep gully you’ll get to the wall, easily identifiably by the dark roof over ‘Commander Cody

Descent notes

Unless you reach an abseil station, the descent for most routes (from Devilled Cream to King Hit) involves walking to the right of the block on the summit; this provides access to the gully located behind the summit block (ie walk around the block in an anticlockwise direction). Then follow the faint path down the gully to meet the track from Mushroom Rock.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

An exciting linkup from the top of Vortex's main dyke into Vertical Tai Chi's 2nd pitch. Belay in the corner at the top of Vortex's main difficulties. Around arete to delicately traverse (wire up in a high crack) across and up to a FH on VTC and finish as for that route.

FA: Goshen Watts & Andrew Clark, 22 Jan 2014

Not the sort of route to take your non-climbing boyfriend/girlfriend up. Takes the prominent crack splitting the buttress. Follow this (trench belay possible), then walk left and up short chimney, then wander up.

Follow Devilled Cream past the trench belay and up the chimney. Instead of easily rambling off left, head up the short crack, to step right onto slab at BR, then up via another two BRs.

Up the right trending crack with wide “pod” partway up to bolted anchors under roof

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