Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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An impressive direct line. Unfortunately vegetation has been winning the battle in recent decades as Buffalo's popularity has waned. Cleaning has resumed in January 2011 - get in quick before the mank comes back. Previously written up as being 117m, this is not possible as the cliff here is no more than 90m high and this route is very direct. The pitch lengths have been condensed to make the total length a bit more realistic.

  1. 27m 17. Very vegetated, can go left or right. Belay on pedestal in corner at 2 PR

  2. 36m 21. Corner to DBB ( bolt plates) . Finger to hand sized cams and wires, 4 old pitons and single thin carrot, all can be backed up or not necessary.

  3. 33m (21) tricky moves past old carrot to sloping ledge ( joins Hard Rain) then up steep crack.Direct finish to look out very dirty. Can escape left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Goeff Gledhill & Chris Baxter (var) (M4), 1970

1 22 M1 40m
2 19 30m
3 20 20m
4 21 30m

A terrific free climb with one single bit of aid doing a crack transfer to start the second pitch. Pitch lengths are approximate.

Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted (carrots) hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree.

  1. ~40m (22, crux) Up the right facing, thin hands corner. This eases from vertical to slab as the corner arcs to the right and the crack thins. Hanging belay on two vintage carrot bolts.

  2. ~30m (19) Lower from the belay and swing over to transfer to the mega-flake to your right. Climb this on perfect hands jams while ignoring the sound that it makes every time you slide a cam in. Continue through a couple of seams to a small stance near a tree.

  3. ~20m (20) Up the crack to where it peters. Slab left past an antique bolt and hanger and into the next crack system. Belay approximately on the slab to the left before the crack goes vertical.

  4. ~30m (21) The vertical crack. A burly move or two and then head hard left back to your clove hitched rap rope and eventually your starting gum tree. There is probably some other ways to finish this pitch directly up to the lookout but the convenience of cleaning up the rap rope on the way outweighed the value of a few more meters of vertical climbing for us.

The best way to do The Establishment. The direct start, and follow the dyke feature all the way up.

  1. 30m (16): The Direct Start to the base of the corner.

  2. 25m (20): Up corner to HBB.

  3. 40m (22): Up corner, follow dyke to to passing bolt at crux steep section.


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