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Approach

You can either rap from the top of Caligula which is pretty easy to find. There is a path and it is about 100m left (facing out) from Bent’s Lookout.

Alternatively you can walk down Burston’s Crevasse. To do this walk down the Gorge Views Track for about 70m, just before the huge gum tree on the R side of the track, where there should be a vague track on your right that leads into the crevasse.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Routes

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FA: 2001

Two FH and a BR. Some other trad placements available too.

Giant Offwidth/trench going straight up of the first belay of Caligula.

"Typhon was known as the “Father of All Monsters.” Birthed from Gaia (the earth) and Tartarus (the depths of hell), he was said to have been the most ferocious creature ever to roam the earth."

RED TAGGED removed and sent 2/4/18. Have at it!

OWSD. #bringthewide

FA: Chris Ferre & Philly Briglia, 17 Feb 2018

FFA: Chris Ferre, 2 Apr 2018

Seriously awesome corner crack feature. You can either walk down Burston’s gulley to access and then scramble up to the start of the route or rap off a tree at the top with a 60m rope.

Chimney and wide crack for the first half after which what is now a stonker hand crack leads you out on to the face and up into the exciting roof and final lay back moves above. Belay off the tree on top.

You could split this route at around half height if you had gear worries but it is really best experienced as a monster single pitch. Pretty sane with some wires and single cams from 0.3 to 0.75 and then doubles to 4 with an extra 2 or 3 for good measure.

FA: Mike Stone, Gordon Talbett & Peter Jacob, 1971

line of bolts up black streak then heads up the arete.

up orange streak to crack and ledge.

Rap down the chimneys below the 'climbers lookout', then walk out onto the ledge. Arrange a rap down the corner to a hanging 2 carrot belay.

Traverse left (looking in) and down to good ledges before moving up past a carrot and onto the arete. Up the arete past a few more bolts and a few cam placements

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