this largely hidden cliff offers some great climbing. A variety of routes from the juggiest of cracks to the blankest of slabs, that are in full shade until lunchtime.


Follow the tourist track to 'The Humo Summit Lookout'. Past the Cathedral. You will come across a rock platform on your R (possible cairn), 5 meters on you will see an arrow painted on a rock pointing L. this is where the Hump track leaves the tourist track.

Follow a faint (not so faint at the moment as it has been trimmed)footpad through the shoulder-high bushes, and down through a little notch/ slot to the top of "The Hump" From here you have abseil access to all of the routes. See route description for abseil descent.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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FA: Jeremy Boreham

Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

To get to the start, the guidebook update advises rapping from the Cows With Guns chains, but it's best to get a belay for the exposed scramble down the narrow buttress to the two carrot top belay, and then rap from there. Avoid the horror chimney/offwidth at all costs. Trad belay (med cams) on the awesome surfboard chockstone to start.

Traverses all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

P.1 From the CC belay take the crack out R, follow this to belay in the horizontal break. P.2 Up to stance, slab up past a carrot into groove to top.

Alt P.2. climb the thin seam then step L into Groove to top.

FA: jack jane & Pete Holmes, 1 Jan 2018

  1. 40m Start on Initiation for 15m, move left then up past 5 carrots to double carrot belay.

  2. 35m Straight up past 4 carrots to abseil chains.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996

You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - just locate one of the rap anchors on the left hand side (facing out) of The Hump and start rapping there. Otherwise you can scramble in at the base of the cliff, but it is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. Regardless, in the end the climb is worth it!

Start beneath the obvious right leaning flake feature on the right side of the main cliff line, just around the corner from the main face. Take four bolt plates or so

  1. 40m (18) Up the tricky shallow corner to start and then into amazing jug flake. There are lots of possible places to set a hanging belay but it's best to continue to the stance just below where the flake turns vertical and belay off trad here. Alternatively you could continue up this as well and belay off a carrot bolt and some large cams on the sloping ledge above.

  2. 20m (15) From stance below the vertical section, climb up to the sloping ledge and traverse right past a few carrot bolts and some exciting slab moves. Climb down into crack/gulley until you can step easily across to below the obvious hand crack on the opposite wall. Belay here.

  3. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue up the slab to the top. Trad belay.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970

FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976

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