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description

You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - just locate one of the rap anchors on the left hand side (facing out) of The Hump and start rapping there. Otherwise you can scramble in at the base of the cliff, but it is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. Regardless, in the end the climb is worth it!

Start beneath the obvious right leaning flake feature on the right side of the main cliff line, just around the corner from the main face. Take four bolt plates or so

  1. 40m (18) Up the tricky shallow corner to start and then into amazing jug flake. There are lots of possible places to set a hanging belay but it's best to continue to the stance just below where the flake turns vertical and belay off trad here. Alternatively you could continue up this as well and belay off a carrot bolt and some large cams on the sloping ledge above.

  2. 20m (15) From stance below the vertical section, climb up to the sloping ledge and traverse right past a few carrot bolts and some exciting slab moves. Climb down into crack/gulley until you can step easily across to below the obvious hand crack on the opposite wall. Belay here.

  3. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue up the slab to the top. Trad belay.

© (koala)

Route history

Dec 1970First ascent: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid)
Jan 1976First free ascent: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75763, 146.78615

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
18 ** ACA Route Register
18 RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 Mt Buffalo
18 [18 - 19] + grAId

ethic

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

inherited from Mount Buffalo

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 90 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 46
Flash 1
Red point 5
Tick 29
Attempt 5
Target 3

Comment keywords

crux tough hard superb awesome classic perfect fun great brilliant cool fantastic super ripper beautiful nice lovely enjoyable amazing good exciting flake layback epic fist chimney vertical short traverse jamming feet easy interesting crack rest sharp runout scary tricky fall

Activity

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