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Route in The Mothballs for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Head First

Was originally very 'go-ey' with just 1 high bolt (Hence the name). Now sane with 3 FHs. Start as for Robert Dazzler but instead of angling up left, head straight up.

  1. Reach across to the arete from the slopey boulder to clip the first FH. You will need either a particularly attentive belayer or a long clip stick to protect the climbing to the second FH. Straight up past the 3rd FH (crux) to the ledge and a rap/lower off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1991

Sport 15m, 3

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