Hoppy's Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 20
  • Ascents: 548
  • Aka: Main Cave





Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.



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Grade Route

Starts on the outside of the cave. Batman to first bolt then climb past first set of anchors to second.

FA: john Wilde

As for J Wilde route, but boulder the start to first set of anchors. Just guessing at grade.

FA: Dan Wilde

Project Piper, Starting 2m right of Vulcan, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt.

Set by Jason Piper

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Set by Jason Piper

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

FA: Ian Geatches, 1997

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

FA: JJ, 2004

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Up the overhanging, leftward trending wall past purple coloured sheild, up to the "plonka" at the semi-rest then trough another overhang to lower off in cave.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

FA: JJ, 2008

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

Starts with the ring on the sloping lip. Right of Pull ya,head out towards the centre of the cave, tricky move under the lip. Head up towards the pink threader. Easiest of the 23's here!

FA: John Wilde

Prob the easiset warm-up in the cave. Starting 2m left of black leg, mantle up and traverse out left to the edge of the cave.

FA: John Wilde

Finishes the first big cave with the laydown ledge

FA: John Wilde

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just left of "Sugar Monster"

FA: Dan wilde, 2008

Starts at the Fresh Gording ledge and links up with Black Leg Miner to finish on the same anchors.

FA: Jason Piper, 22 Oct 2012

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

FA: Jason Piper, 2004

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock.

FA: Jason Piper, 2009

Start as for PFN- up block then climb right around and under roof to anchors of Trotters Trifecta 2. A short route worthwhile in its own right.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

Start at back of cave near pinkish rock. Up easily to clip first bolt from ledge then climb out rib via good pocket heading left around to anchors of BLM. Can keep going left and all the way out to lip of cave. Back climb to clean.

FA: John Wilde & Tim Phelan, 1997

The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors.

FA: Jason Piper, 2004

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

FA: Jason Piper, 2005

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

Set by Tim Haasnoot & Jason Piper, 2010

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012

Sharp, tough start to a easier top. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U.

FA: John Wilde

Start as for Powdered Poo finishing on Wildie's Warmup. A more pleasant warmup.

Start as for PP, but head up and left before the rest, some tricky foot shenanigans to transition from rising traverse to vertical wall. From good holds, blast straight up to a pumpy finish with Wiregate Loweroffs. Top can be wet in the rain.

FA: JJ, 2004

The arching left line finishing in the small cave with the nest of white goodness.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Just right of Wildie's Warmup, straight up, can lower off WW, but the extension is a project through the roof.

Start 4m right of Powdered Poo, up past a 3 fixed hangers to lower off in roof. Easiest warm-up and stays dry in any rain!!

Start at DBB before dropping down to terrace, as for CD. Continue up left leaning line to anchors in roof as for Baby Belayer


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