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Lichen pinnacle 🚫 Rock climbing 16 routes in area

Climbing in this area is closed.

16
AU
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Seasonality

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Description

Fourth pinnacle. Quite wide, the brushed streak of the first two climbs is visible from the track. Go down hill as for Bellybutton and warty tree pinnacles and contour across and around downhill side of pinnacle for other routes

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Trent The Trench Cleaner Mixed trad 15m, 1
Closed

The diagonal left wards crack finishing on anchors of ROR

FA: John Wilde & Mick Johnson, 2012

2
20 The Market Gardener Mixed trad 12m, 2
Closed

Up crack then onto flake, passing two old 1/2 inch bolts with homemade hangers.

FA: John Wilde & Jeremy, 1998

3
17 ★ Veggie Patch Sport 20m
Closed

Up brushed slab, second route uphill of the crack. Shares same anchors

FA: John Wilde, 2012

4
17 ★★ A Walk In The Park Sport 24m, 7
Closed

Nicely angled slab climbing, a little run out but safe.

FA: John Wilde

5
16 Not Lichen it Trad 40m, 2
Closed

The trad crack left of the bolted slab. Rusty chain anchor on ledge after Pitch 1 or continue to top and rap off tree near the route to the right

6
21 ★★ Magical Mystery Tour Sport 20m, 8
Closed

Just around arete from Not Lichen It, on carpark side of town facing (downhill) wall. Up through small cave and through the steepening wall to tough move to pull onto slab.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2009

7
23 The Double Agent Trad 25m
Closed

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Set: Gavin Jensen

FA: John Wilde

8
Project Tim SportProject 30m
Closed

Only 2 bolts in lower crux, top cleaned.

9
25 ★★ Interpol Sport 20m, 7
Closed

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

FA: Dan Wilde

10
24 ★★ The Asian Informant Sport 20m, 11
Closed

Start on the arete, up on thin holds to stance before groove. Up some thin moves in groove to pumpy top.

FA: Daniel Wilde

11
22 ★★ Frankie the Snitch Sport 22m, 10
Closed

Start just right of corner, up steep wall, the move out onto arete after 4th bolt. Lower off ontop of pinicale.

FA: John Wilde

12
16 Feral Jack Trad 25m
Closed
13
24 ★★ The African's Route Sport 19m
Closed

Start left of tree, perhaps stickclip second bolt to avoid decking when clipping. Can use a smallish cam or medium wire can add protection at the break

FA: Gavin Jensen

14
23 ★★ The French Connection Sport 16m
Closed

Starts to the left of the tree near chimney- second climb along. Up diagonal crack to dog leg, a cam handy here before second bolt. Zig zag up wall coming very close to African route in middle before heading left again. Finish on anchors of African route

FA: John Wilde, 2010

15
25 ★ Black Jack Sport
Closed

Set: Mick Mayer

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

16
21 ★ Early Morning Heart Start Trad 17m
Closed

FA: Mick Mayer

Top editors by karma

See all contributors | Karma

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing Guide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

-5% Buy
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Chris Bentham at Lichen pinnacle - "The Informant" 24

Tim Haasnoot at Lichen pinnacle - "The Informant" 24

Tue 18 Apr
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