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Black Wall Major

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Description

The area between the Big Quarry, under the old lookout, and Hoppys cave. Approach by walking south/left along the base of the cliff from the cave. The routes start left of a second high cave and are described right to left. If coming from the state forest, drop down just south of the big quarry and head north along the ridge base.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start 2m right of Sarah's route, on FHs. The second bolt placement has been marked but not placed, so save your back and stick clip the actual second bolt as the rock is friable. The third bolt is hard to see, and quite high.

FA: john Mullan, 2016

Now re-bolted on U bolts. Route is aproximatly 50m south of the access track to Hoppy's Cave. May need a little cleaning. Starts at twin grass trees and trends left. Be careful of them when lowering.

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1997

Through the small overhang then up and left to anchors.

Set: James

Follow the massive u bolts up the groove, trending right. Potential for nasty fall between second and third bolt, otherwise a lot of bolts, take 14 quick draws

FA: JP

Details unknown. First 3 bolts of Black Groove then up left on fixed hangers.

Details unknown. Starts 5m left of black groove. Need 70m+ rope to lower off!

Starts 10m left of black groove. Need 70m+ rope to lower off!

This route is 60m left of the last route. Fixed hangers up long blocky slab, take care. Need a 70m rope to lower off!

First line of bolts after a small rise. Smooth slab to surmount bulge up high, just left of a corner feature

FA: Luke Yerbury, 12 Dec 2018

Start directly below anchors and solo between bolted routes to join 3rd last bolt of CCG

FA: David Gray, Jun 2019

Up BWFAS, clip bolt out wide to the right and finish up CCG.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jul 2021

Easy slab 10m right of PPS with a somewhat wayward 3rd bolt. This bolt does allow link ups if you are so inclined.

FA: Luke Yerbury, 12 Dec 2018

Starts on RB, up a left leaning diagonal line, 3 m left of BWFAS

FA: charlie

Starts just right of FCKF on black rock and tricky holds. Grade eases as does bolt spacing.

Few metres left of PPS, and left of a second route on FHs. The first hanger on this route is blue in colour

FA: Matt, 12 Dec 2018

5m left of FCKF up clean slab on U bolts

Set: John Hollott

FA: John Hollott, 1 Apr 2019

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