★★★ Evolution 24

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of cams (0.3 to 2), a set of wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, traverse right to the diagonal overlap, then step back left to a hidden jug (0.5/0.75 cam) and tricky mantle, up to a small ledge with DFH.

4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Up the corner to great cams, now diagonally right across the steep face past 11 bolts and a zillion diagonal pockets, then span right to a short blocky corner with a DBB on top.

5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts delicately up the groove and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 10 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left arete of the cave, then angle back right and up on big pumpy holes on fantastic orange rock (the line of rustier bolts heading up then R through steep ground is Pump Lust). Mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2/3 cam near the top. TBB.

7. 55m (23 M1/25) Up and left past three bolts to a ledge, pulling on a couple to reach a jug. The bolts above and right are for various good but harder alternate finishes. Instead trend up and left, around the arête to join a bridging corner for 10m, then a dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off (55m), the casuarinas are unreliable.