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Upper Easterlies

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
12

Seasonality

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Description

A small but concentrated cluster of boulders tucked up on the hillside, below the abandoned 3 story building.

Access issues inherited from Sunny Bay

(Locked gate, now private property? Can still access by walking along beach) A 4wd or vehicle with decent clearance is recommended (otherwise walk in turns from 20m to 900m (still easy walking)). This land was purchased by a developer in 2013. There is an open gate at the start of the track and no restriction to access. Ensure the track is clear for other vehicles to pass as other fishers, 4wder etc. use this area. Old WW2 batteries at the end of track at False Cape are heritage listed, please respect these. And of course, be a decent person and take all of your rubbish home.

Approach

From the batteries at the point, walk up along the ridge for a few minutes until you come across the abandoned multi story building. Walk around and drop down the hill to the left for ~20m. Problems are listed from left to right, facing uphill.

Ethic inherited from Cairns

Clean up wherever you go, take your rubbish, or any you find out with you. Brush chalk. So many of these areas are pristine and we should all make an effort to keep it that way.

Clean and brush but try minimise destroying vegetation. Steel wire brushes are okay in most places but avoid if possible.

Tick marks are ok, but please brush them off when you leave.

Please don't chip holds and do minimise contrived routes. Also minimise route beta in descriptions to ease onsight attempts.

For any route you create that you know is hard to find, please add in the Lat and Long in the route details so it can be found using maps. Finding the routes in the rainforest can be hard.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start on flake arete. Move up along good holds, heading slightly left, to top out at highest point.

FA: Sean Reily, Mar 2017

Sit start on rail. Move directly up with LH sidepulls and holds on R arete. Continue over bulge into the blankness.

Start as for a). Move up and onto RH face, following obvious line of holds up and traversing R.

Sit start on jug on arete. Up through good holds.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Start sitting with crack in middle of face. Gain the large ledge up and L. Traverse L along ledge to arete before finishing up as for a).

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Obvious crack line in middle of face with a sit start. Good holds all the way to a fairly tall topout.

Sit start on obvious zig zag crack. Climb up and R, before topping out with the awesome but hidden jug.

FA: Sean Reilly, Mar 2017

Sit start on jugs on arete. Up through good holds

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Sit start on blocky sidepulls. Up through to L slopey ledge and finish as for a)

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Sit start on blocky sidepulls. Up through compression moves, directly up to topout.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Start matched on ledge. head up following corner to a blank slab top out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

Sit start on good edges. Move up and over bulge where holds become minimal.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, Mar 2017

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