Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The section of rock you first approach at this crag.

On your right is a good beginner or warm up area. There are features such as a small stacked roof, cracks and overhangs, and has some stand-alone rock, lowballs, flakes and aretes. Some hard and tall climbs on the north side of the prominant boulder.

Mind the tides.

Access issues inherited from North Trinity Bouldering

Time it around the daily tide surges. At high tide the waves do come up to the 'Keep of rocks - private property' signs' rock wall, but only to knee height with splash. Still not a great prospect in stinger season to walk through. Otherwise the actual boulders at the north end stay dry all day and there is always shade that can be found.

Approach

Listed in the order you approach them in.

Ethic inherited from North Trinity Bouldering

Take ALL rubbish with you, and any you find there. Let's keep it pristine.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Traverse the long obvious rock that dips into the ocean. Be mindful not to dip your feet in

Start far right, work pockets and incredible hidden undercling jug up weakness to orange patch. Nice pinch into jugs and topout

To the right of IA seated at base of slopey arete left of FC, using face and arete holds. Pocket, undercling edge, slopers and 2 ridiculous pinches to get to rail and oval pocket to top. Low small feet and heels help. Big and vertical cracks are OUT.

Jared Tyerman

FA: Jared Tyerman, 11 Apr 2019

Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete.

Start seated on rock, work up mostly through pockets that work as edges to vertical central crack with pocket. Edge left of this is in. Top out via crack and horizontal rails.

Set: Jared Tyerman

FA: Eli Taylor

Stand start low- two underclings. Up through pockets. Then to edge and mini sidepull. Stay left of slight arete. To prow for topout.

Harder for sit start, easier if stand starting using pockets straight away (i.e. not using undercling start holds).

FA: Jared Tyerman, 15 Jun 2019

Work from Funky Chunky's start to the far left of the Forewall. Thereby traverse all climbs here through the 2m section of the wall. Cool movements prior to the Pocket Rocket section of the climb. Top out as far left as you deem safe, ends above rocks not pads

FA: Sean Reilly

Sit below crack, work jugs into crack, follow crack to flake-type feature and jugs and crack to top out. Exclude various features for V1

Work far right to far left, using mint heels and toes and open hands on top hand grating edge, to jugs and the topout as far left as possible

Sit in rocky hole, work left hand crack using wall features for V1, V2 for direct up crack without wall's aid

Offwidth crack essentially with staircase within

Left hand arete of off-width

Set: Jess Szekely

FA: Jared Tyerman

Arete right of offwidth, bit more slopey than Thing 1

Set: Jess Szekely

FA: Jared Tyerman

Using the underside as a sit start, use funky holds of choosing for many renditions of a one move wonder that tickles your fancy. Fair few there to try.

The landing is a bit sketchy, first point to warrant mentioning. Follow the hand crack from bottom left to top right. Cleaning it each time helps remove the moss.

Star far left of obvious ominous wall, work face and arete up to roof, top left of roof for benchmark V2, right of roof for V3. BEWARE THE GUILLOTINE ROCK BELOW, PAD WELL! Also feel free to top right over that roof if you trust it as a free-standing piece

Pad the hole, start on the arete into chill sidepull holds and semi jugs. Be wary of scrappy feet. Topout through flaring crack-like weakness

Set: Sean Reilly

FA: Sean Reilly

Use FLIP's thin crack into finger lock, top out over and through crack right of horizontal flake. Start seated by the base of the i

Sit start on the flake surrounding the F on the Flip graffiti, work up and around and top out.

FFA: Monica, 7 Apr 2020

Sit start with pocket and pinch on obvious overhang. Work to scoop, up left to diagonal rail. Gain left horn then miraculous jug rail at top. Topout with far back features or closer cracks.

Set: Jared Tyerman

FA: Sean Reilly

Hard right most line of holds. Use none of the holds from LS except the 2 sit start holds and topout jug. All sharp edges (and one ultra micro).

Jared Tyerman (Attempts & beta)

Start seated underclining underside of major central flake (~made possible by the spider who gave his home for this hold, thank you sir- by the way be wary of giant abdomen spiders here, they look gnarly. Do not kill any wild life either, they were around before we were for the most part~), avoiding lower flake behind. Follow into weakness diagonally up left, top above here.

Arete just right of Gecko graffiti. Slopey compression after small edges. Tops after high dark pinch. Harder starting off right edges and traversing into arete.

Set: Jared Tyerman

FA: Jared Tyerman, 17 Apr 2019

Same as for SD except that the right wall is IN for feet/hands.

FA: Sean Reilly

Sit at low left diagonal crack. Move up and right to dihedral finger crack opening using foot holds on face only (right opposing wall is OUT). Gain higher vertical rail and above edge. High right diagonal pinch and/or lip for topout.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 Mar 2019

Sir Reilly dubs upon thee:

Sinner, repent for the Lord hath delivered upon your unworthy flappers Thy Holy Arete! Climb the left side of the proudest arete in all the land. Absolutely mega.

Set: Sean Reilly

Use hollow jugs for fun flying up route

Use bubbly crack to get to top

Start sitting at arete's base, into bubble features to topout

Start seated with pad on spikes, work into crossing holds and then jug to topout. Cool movements.

Work 3 obvious jugs or 2 as a dyno. Mind the spiders in the holds

Start seated on point of rock to wide arete to nice curved rail, minding all the while the guillotine here below as well. Pad well

Sit start the block into undercling to second block to stand on, use two crimps if you're ballsy rather than top of rock to top out (And don't be a Dave and get eaten by skinks haha)

High ball, use features at left of face and go up, end is a bit scarce, just face it and topout

Work holds in centre of wall, end again is slightly scarce of holds working cenral due to angles. But works, topout

Use crack and holds left of crack for cruisy sailing to the top

Use crack direct working to flared section and topout. Mind loose sounding section 3/4 of the way up. Should be solid. Use pockets right of crack with crack for V0

Uses pockets right of Wanderer's crack and into flake to pocket and jug topout via mantle

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Stack.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文