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Summary

This is a lovely spot for a boulder with many problems - some eliminate done over the past few years up to V8. There is at least six clusters of problems across the headland.

Description

Bouldering on north headland of 4 Mile Beach, can access via carpark and steps at north end of 4 Mile Beach. Alternatively access from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Access issues

None, but it's a popular tourist area so keep a low profile if possible. Most of the climbing areas are well out of any tourist spots though.

Approach

Problems are described in the order you get to them from 4-mile beach.

The boulders near Opal and Coral (located at -16.4794420, 145.4658720) are better accessed from Rex Smeal Park. Walk along the track leading south from the Park to 10m before first set of stairs. Head through the opening to the beach and walk south for roughly 200m.

Where to stay

Port Douglas

Ethic inherited from Cairns

Clean up wherever you go, take your rubbish, or any you find out with you. Brush chalk. So many of these areas are pristine and we should all make an effort to keep it that way.

Clean and brush but don't destroy vegetation. Avoid steel wire brushes if possible.

Tick marks - ok but brush them off when you leave.

Please don't chip holds and do minimise contrived routes.

GEOTAGGING - PLEASE GEOTAG! For any route you create, or know is hard to find add in the Lat and Long in the route details so it shows on the map. Finding routes in the rainforest for example is hard.

Minimise route beta in descriptions to ease onsight attempts.

History

History timeline chart

Climbed on since at least 2007 but probably earlier. Many first ascents by Pete Reynolds during regular annual holidays to Port Douglas. All problems done without pads so grades might seem easier with a bouldering pad!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Climb the left-leaning obvious feature. Easy.

Climb up and reach right to the positive creaky hold in the centre of the wall, match this and head for the ramp. Up this to finish. Can also continue traversing out up and right to finish.

Climb the centre of the face to a crimp and then get the ramp and finish more easily. Can also finish out and up right which is fun.

Traverse all the way up the edge of the boulder. A fun expedition.

A committing climb up the lofty arete. Good holds emerge when you need them most! Edit June 2019: Holds are loose and some have popped.

Same start as for ON but after gaining slot rail head straight up semi-blank face to upper slab. Pockets and edges to topout.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 29 Jun 2019

Head left to right on lip.

Start in mini cave/cut out as low as possible then up to TL.

Sit start two edges. Move to semi good edges and move to feature on lip for topout.

Sit start edges then to positive edge and far right thin pointy edge. Big bump to top left-ish feature for topout.

Same as for B but after thin pointy edge trend up right to corner with grass tussock using layoffs.

Hanging start on jug then climb over the low roof onto the slab with difficulty.

Stand start and climb the short arete. On same boulder as Arlo's Cave.

Head up far left pointy arete. Arete only for hands.

Use edge features to gain lip and topout.

Use flakey edges to get to left of blankness for toout.

Head up many edges to lip for topout on large rails. Just left of obvious corner with cracks.

Trend up finger crack (footholds are plentiful) to gain upper lip and topout. Don't have to use only the crack (as it is often too thin for fingers).

Start in the large recess behind trees then pull up right to obvious ledge on arete before traversing right using flakes, cracks and occasional hold on top edge. Stay off the ramp beneath you and finish by swinging feet onto large block at the top of it.

FA: Captain Ruin, 17 May 2021

Traverse from the left hand end of the block to finish up Sargassum. Tricky. Like all the routes on this block it has been affected by recent landslides and is pretty dusty.

Easy up the lefthand arete.

Just right of Ribbons - climb up to finish.

Up near the painted line - trickier than the routes to the right.

Climb the nice edges.

Compression problem up the next feature. Right hand in the thin crack/layaway and left hand on slopers and other holds (but not using the crack in the corner!). Sitstart.

Climb the thin crack only to an easier finish. Jams and layways. Sitstart.

Stretch off the ground to a positive foothold on the right and the use crack for your hand. Up and then get the higher hold and then finish.

Up the thin crack to a big-ish move getting a positive jug over the lip. Finish easily.

Climb the rough arete.

Climb the rough arete.

Climb up the face left of the crack (avoid the crack) and get the positive oval hold near the top. Finish more easily.

Climb the crack from a sit.

Sitstart right of Sunken City and climb up and rightwards over the drop. Then drop down to the jug and finish with a powerful move up the blank groove. A bit pumpy too.

Sitstart and climb the arete left of Verandahs via slopers and crimps. Start on the lowest triangular flat sloper hold. Eases to finish.

Sitstart and climb the beautiful face via nice features.

Start as making waves but halfway up reach out left to the thin crack using a gaston/finger lock in the and then finish up the crack. Great.

Jared Tyerman

Sitstart and head up the left trending feature. Get a positive hold in the crack with the left hand at 3/4 height, then reach up and over for a sloper-pinch with the right hand, and then reach around the left arete to a pocket to finish easily. A bit committing.

Jared Tyerman

As for Foreshore but from the sloper-pinch, cross up and over for a good hold with the left (near the crack). Finish direct. Committing but amazing.

Jared Tyerman

Traverse right to left - tricky in the middle. Finish up the face. Don't use the adjacent block for your feet.

Traverse left to right from the corner. Finish up the arete. Don't use the adjacent block for your feet.

Sitstart and climb the short corner on the back of the happy birthday boulder.

Stand start and climb up the arete and walls above. Hardest move is the first. On a separate boulder to The Kraken etc.

Stand start and climb the wall/arete via a sloper in the middle.

Sitstart in the middle of the wall on an undercut-sidepull for the left and poor pinch for the right hand. Pull off the ground and snatch to a better hold for the right hand (just above). Then up (but still below the overlap) and traverse right to finish up The Kraken.

Start as for Nautilus but at the overlap reach up for a small crimp with the right hand, then go for the sloping ledge with the left. Finish compressing the two aretes.

Start as for Nautilus but at the overlap reach up for a positive sidepull with the lefthand, then go for the sloping ledge with the right. Finish compressing the two aretes.

Start as for Nautilus but after the hard first move head up and left to finish up the slab/arete.

Start as for The Kraken and finish up the wave that time forgot.

Start on top of Poseidon boulder and go up the crack directly.

Stand start on the diagonal feature and arete. Hit the top of the boulder than traverse right to the other arete. Rock over the front side of the boulder to finish.

Up the right hand arete to the top. Stand start.

Up the wall right of Poseidon's daughter (but actually on a separate boulder) to finish direct via cracks.

Up the wall right of Poseidon's daughter (but actually on a separate boulder) but finish out right via the slab.

Up the arete. Start on the left and then rock around onto the right at halfway to finish.

Stand start and climb the crack.

Sitstart and climb the blunt arete. Sharp!

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Sitstart on positive holds. Move up to layaway and then to the jug rail just above and right. Finish direct through semi-reachy edges. Dont use either arete. Topout at prow.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Jared Tyerman

Sitstart and climb the lovely arete.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Sitstart on double underclings, move up via handjams and/or finger lock (hard and painful!) or use a meat hook method instead of jamming (hard but less painful!) to exit via left or right toe hook/heel hook. Good features for topout. Don't use the adjacent boulder.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Jared Tyerman (Attempts)

Stand start on the jug and climb up to the top of the boulder. Roll over the top. A bit committing.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Start as for Snappy but immediately break left, following the seam to the arete through a set of small crimps and a big move. Roll over and top out up slab.

Stand start and climb the arete.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

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