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Description

A cool, convenient and condensed cluster of shorter boulders with a good selection of easier - intermediate problems, plus a couple of test pieces to throw in the mix. With the exception of a couple of boulders, the area remains well shaded throughout the day. All within 50m from the car, this area makes for an easy outing with some quality lines. Problems will be described from upstream to downstream.

Access issues inherited from Cairns

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Approach

Driving along Barron Gorge Rd, as you pass the final houses you will head down a short curving hill with a National park sign at the bottom and an obvious pullout/dirt parking area on the right hand side. Continue past, roughly a further 100-200m and park at the first decent pullout on the left side of the road, with room for a couple of cars here. A steep, but open gully at the end of this parking area provides the easiest access down to the boulders. From here (bottom of gully) Bear Hug (V2) should be immediately to your left. Boulders are up and downstream of here.

Boulders are listed here in order from upstream to downstream.

Ethic inherited from Barron Gorge

Brush holds. Respect veg as much as possible, wildlife and rock.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start at base of subtle arete on upstream side of boulder. Up arete via good slot.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 27 Aug 2018

Sit start, low under the boulder, on the low scoop (below the biggest scoop feature). Up through interesting features, topping out directly. Note: Starting on the bottom of the largest scoop makes for an easier V2 version.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Starting as for Grime, keep low and traverse R. Big move to high right scoop and topping out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Sit start with great layback jug in middle of face. Up via long moves on nice holds.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Sit start on RH end of boulder with LH small pocket. Directly up.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Start sitting with blocky layback feature on LH arête. Follow arête up and R, topping out at highest point.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Crouch start with great blocky edge for RH in middle of face. Head up, trending slightly L to top out amongst the ferns.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

Start as for Swingers staying below the lip traverse into Basket of Fern and top from here.

Kieran Pates

FA: 20 Jul 2020

Sit start on top of the rocky drop off with RH crimp sidepull and assortment of features for L. Long move to small, hollow sounding flake/edge, into crimp sidepull/pinch and up via shallow holds before topping out directly on good holds further back.

Jared Tyerman

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Aug 2018

A real warmup, taking the full brunt of the afternoon sun. Sit start and up via series of interesting pockets, jugs and slopers. A few variations probably exist.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

A slightly awkward sit start at the far L end of boulder leads up and R along leaning arête, into obvious layback edge on face and a long move to lip. Continue traversing R to mantle at tip.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

Located on the opposite side of boulder from Casuarina Ballerina. Stand start on okay hold, right hand side of road side face, just right of arete. Traverse left on holds along lower lip. From the holds in the centre of the lip, at the thin vertical crack, stay low and make a big move to the left hand apex of boulder, topping out here.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Aug 2019

Start on the block that holds the whole boulder up, and link into Black Swan via a big span on underclings.

Sit start to Black Swan. Start on low slopey diagonal edges, and move into the start of Black Swan.

Crouch start on solid, but detatched small block at base of obvious blocky feature on LH end of face. Directly up.

This and the next 3 climbs are on the boulder next to (toward the road) Black Swan's boulder. On the riverside face.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

Crouch start (/sit off rock) in middle of face with good blocky feature (with crimp above) for LH, and sidepull crimp flake out low and wide for RH. Head up and R to gain good, high right edge near lip. Top out above. Possibly top out to the R for alternate finish.

A slightly squished sit start amongst the Phyllanthus, low and at the RH end of arête, leads up and L, following arête onto good edge on face. Top out above.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

As uninspiring as the name suggests, but interesting enough for a warmup. Sit start at far LH end of long, low face on sidepull. Traverse R along series of poo sloping holds at lip and slick feet. Top out at far R end.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

Sit start on L face of boulder with obvious low sidepull. One move wonder to the good holds, then cruise up the slab.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

– Sit start at base of slab/arête on obvious RH rail and LH pocket. Directly up via good holds and fun compression moves. Good exposure to the style at an achievable grade.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Aug 2018

Sit start towards centre of boulder with obvious jug in pocket for LH. Pull into and get established on mono pocket and sidepull before throwing for jugs and matching at the lip. Choss pile top out optional.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Oct 2018

Crouch start from RH end of boulder, RH on arête, rail for LH. Traverse L following rail, into slot, and topping out at LH side.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Aug 2018

Sit start in back of cave in ‘corner’ with pair of slots in crack. Follow crack up and to corner then out to cave's perimeter via big move. Work to top via series of holds along lip. Top out using upper slab holds.

FA: Callum Mather, 4 Sep 2020

Start under roof to the right of the seam on an undercling and low left facing edge. Join the crack via a big lock off move and finish as for Bodega.

Stand start above the rock on the ground, with good blocky sidepull feature in middle of face. Up via lovely climbing, on surprise jugs. If only it were longer.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 11 Apr 2018

Sit start below TOA, under roof on undercling and low left facing edge. Out via rail and slopey features and climbing into TOA.

Deserving of more stars if only longer. Sit start with good low RH scoop and left edge. Pull a solid move to holds up and L, over the bulge and top out above alongside tree roots.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Aug 2018

Same scooping start hold as for Culled but go directly up. 2 edges and 2-3 slopers. Topout without using tree roots.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 8 May 2019

Sit start under the overhung arete with sidepull on face for RH. Up and onto face to easy top out.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 9 Oct 2018

Follows the obvious left trending diagonal rails, starting roughly in centre of face.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 9 Oct 2018

Start as for Utmost degree, but head more or less directly up through high opposing side pulls.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 Oct 2018

Starting below the obvious large, high holes towards the right side of face. Up series of smaller features before gaining good pinches/jugs in holes, and jugs to top out on. Enjoyable climbing with a little bit of height spice.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 9 Oct 2018

A little gem tucked away within the cavern. Accessed by bridging the gap on the left, traverse the lip up and right to top out at highest point. This boulder climbs above the water and cannot be protected, however, offers some very pleasant easy climbing with a dash of exposure.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 Oct 2018

Sit start on the vague right side arete with sidepulls. Up through good holds and top out as for Calmer Waters.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 Oct 2018

Sit start with obvious low jugs below the large, rounded and vertical sidepull. Climb through the steepness to gain sloping edges at base of the headwall, finishing up the scooped slab with opposing vertical rails.

Cameron Whycherley Glen Hayford Callum Mather

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 19 Nov 2018

The stand start begins with large sloped sidepull for R hand, and high sloping crimp, left of the sharp flake, for L hand. Move slightly R through series of sloped features, then up through the scooped slab with vertical sidepull rails on either side. Some great movement down low on insecure holds.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 18 Oct 2018

Crouch start approx. 3m L of the obvious tree intersecting the middle of the lip, on holds just R of the extra rounded and blank section. Traverse R along the sloping lip, topping out just before tree with crimps on the slab. An easy slab head wall takes you high to the top. Note: An obvious extension, starting further to the L would be a welcome addition, but likely to add significantly to the grade.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 25 Sep 2018

Steeeeeeep... Sit start, low under the 50-60 degree overhung roof, L of the tree, in large, obvious scoop with good underclings. Climb directly out through mix of various features to gain lip, mantle and top out as for The Uncertainty Principle.

Glen Hayford

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 14 Oct 2018

accidental duplication of a line on thecrag

Start deep down in the hole, and chimney your way out. Pretty much everything is in. Top out to the right. Absolutely disgusting.

Start on good righthand choss block and low left edge. Move up via slopey gastons. Rock to the right is out.

Start on lowest left hang slopey side pull and bad right gaston. I'll let you figure out how to even pull on. Climb the slopey jug arete.

Lie down start under the wedged block with a left hand slot and right hand underling. Work your way out of the hole via slopey side pulls and heel hooks. All unattached blocks are out.

Sit start on sharp left side pull and right edge. Go up and right via any sharp hold of your choice!

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