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Routes in Cairns for selected grade

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Showing all 52 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Barron Gorge Ominous Roof
17/18 P

Follow crack up past blocky ledge, fine crack can use cams up to size 1 or 2 even. Rappel off tree to left of end of climb.

Set: Jonas Lamarche

FA: Jonas Lamarche & Jared Tyerman, 11 Dec 2017

Trad 8m
Barron Gorge The Boulder Field
V0 - 1 Point Blank Slab

Stand start at pocket and good undercling, smear up to good crack and edges to work to top lip. Also an easier variation left of the line.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 May 2019

Boulder 4m
V0 - 1 Locked In Hard

Stand start low with two positive underclings and good low feet, slap for lip and mantle

FA: Jared Tyerman & Andrew Dawia, 26 May 2019

Boulder 3m
Barron Gorge Mackas Bluff
18 Loose as a Goose
Trad
Barron Gorge The Zen Garden
V0 - 1 Less Mean Graphene Machine

Traverse left to right and topout at far right corner. A good warm up for Graphene Machine.

FA: Jared Tyerman & Farid Borbar Yanez, 26 Jun 2019

Boulder 2m
Barron Gorge Split Rock Area
V0 - 1 Little Blunt Arete

Sit start at the base of small arete with good holds. Up, trending slightly left. Short, but nice.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Nov 2018

Boulder 2m
V0 - 2 Sassy Sloth

Traverse upstream to downsteam on good ledge using high feet (heels and toes) for V1. Another alternative is smear along the face making it a bit pumpier to V2 maybe. Is a lot easier using the lower slab though for feet making it V0.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2019

Boulder 2m
North Wangetti The Breakwall
V0+ Repetitive Naming Trends

Sit start with hands in the crack and follow this until topping out

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020

Boulder 3m
V0+ A Noble Smear Embiggens The Smallest Human

Wander up the face just right of the corner. Will keep you thinking the whole way.

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020

Boulder 4m
V0+ Puffy Pastries

Sit start using the horizontal break and follow it left and over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 May 2020

Boulder 2m
North Wangetti Pretty Beach Northern Retreat
V0+ Folding Molasses

Sit start at the rounded arete, follow up using jugs and slopes until on top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Trick Or Treacle

Sit start with the flake on the face and use whatever you can find to get up on top. Many different ways of doing this, so have fun with it!

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Arete Vandals

Sit start with hands on the big ledge, one or two moves and you'll be at the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 21 May 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Pressed Palms

The far right problem of this wall. Might be hard to find a time when it's dry.

Sit start under the overhanging arete and hands on the blocky jug, go from this to the next blocky jug and pull up to the next crack and over the top

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Sweetened Lies

Sit start at the base of the crack to the right of Knock Block, layback and pop over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020

Boulder 2m
North Wangetti Pretty Beach The Zoo Pen
V0+ Entry Gates

Sit start on the jugs to the right of 'Rhino Face' on the small platform, and head up using sidepulls and edges to the top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Boulder 2m
North Wangetti Pretty Beach Grey And Balding
V0+ Eye On The Prize

Sit start at the right hand side of the wall, underclings and crimps to start, staying left of the arete heading to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Boulder 3m
V0+ Corner Store

Sit start under the uphill arete using crimps to start and pulling up to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Wasted Effort

Not really worth doing, but it's there. Sit start down and right of the slate block on the face, using the breaks and pretty much sitting on the block on the ground, pull up, slap the lip and pull over.

FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020

Boulder 1m
North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Below
V0+ Reached The End Of Your Hope

Sit start in the bottom of the small corner, pull up and stand into this for a totally necessary hands free rest. Head up past the loose looking block (so far testing has not moved it at all) and then follow the crack up over to the right to then stand on top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 5m
V0+ They Treed On My Arights!

Yeah, work out what that name means.

Slightly shorter and nicer than some of the others on this block, definitely the cruisiest of the bunch.

Sit start on the triangle block, hands on the flat edge with decent feet. Stand up and use the jugs and cracks to get to the crack leading to the small tree.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 4m
V0+ Where's The Point?

Juggy short problem on the south face of Zeppelin Rising boulder. Not that great really.

Sit start in the base of the corner with various jugs and go straight up to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 Jul 2020

Boulder 2m
North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Beyond
V0+ Four In The Hole

Sit start on the uphill side of the golf ball and follow up the sharp pockets and huecos until on top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 2m
V0+ Hypertechnicality

Sit start in the grass just near the little pillar. Follow up the cracks to the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 3m
V0+ Nickel-Load-em-on

Sit start with the blocky rail and head straight up into the rising break.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 3m
V0+ Pitted As A Cherry Brah!

Sit start matched on the flat edge, go up and right to the jugs and slopers.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 3m
V0+ Cracked Boards

Sit start hands in the wider crack and use this and whatevers within reach going straight up.

FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020

Boulder 3m
Atherton Tablelands Emerald Creek
V0+ Mono

FA: Steve Baskerville

Boulder
V0+ The Smooth Machine RHV

FA: Steve & Tris Baskerville

Boulder
Atherton Tablelands Closed Turkey Hill
17 (Unknown 1)
Trad 7m
17 Crackerbarrel
Trad 7m
18 Mellow Yellow
Trad 5m
18 Cheese Grater
Top rope 17m
17 (Unknown 6)
Trad 10m
16 - 18 (Unknown 7)
Trad 10m
14 - 18 (Unknown 8)
Trad 10m
17 Rearviewmirror
Trad 7m
Atherton Tablelands Granite Gorge
V0 - 1 Tufa Love

Head up compression over prow. Almost reminiscent of climbing on limestone tufas. Stand start.

Just near metal bridge upstream of main reception. Downstream of the weir.

FA: Jared Tyerman & Tamara O'Neil, 19 Jan 2019

Boulder 4m
V0 - 1 Dem Legs

Sit start at base of small boulder with "weir" written on it (just across from PII) to gain leg dominated line to top. Small but fun.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 19 Jan 2019

Boulder 2m
V0 - 1 Hands for Feet

Stand start corner with edges to work into higher edges. Use tension or pop straight to jug and topout. Edge at a shoulder's width left of the jug helps for the top.

Near EP and the two APs

FA: Jared Tyerman, 8 Jul 2019

Boulder 4m
18 Petrogale

Beautiful tall splitter that widens from hands to offwidth. Head right under the roof to top out. Take care when belaying as there is a large cavern directly underneath the start of the crack.

Trad 16m
Atherton Tablelands Emu Creek
18 Jolly Jumper

Start on block into overhang in corner working direct corner of mound to top.

Trad 13m
17 Rantanplan

Get up onto platform, work lay back crack into below fridge stone, hang off and power through 2m splitter handjam crack up onto slab and to anchors of The Daltons.

Trad 13m
V0+ Tetris

Wacky moves and wierd body positions. Move up through the corner and slightly left to top out.

Unknown
Sunny Bay The Fish Bowl
V0 - 1 Slab on the Back

Start on high and obvious sidepull flake with interesting rock. Head up slab with good holds and pleasant climbing to top out on spine of boulder. Descend to the L with care.

FA: Cameron Wycherley, 21 Mar 2017

Boulder 4m
Barron Falls Base of the Falls
17 Peanut Butter Spider

At lower ampitheatre

Trad
18 Edge Your Bets

To the left of Tag Team. A 30m sheer sweeping wall with a series of small horizontal edges.

Trad 30m
Fitzroy Island Summit Boulder Field The Thimble
V0+ Nimble Thimble

Up the slab to the top, take care on the way down.

Boulder 9m
Stoney Creek Stoney Creek Boulders
V0 - 1 Open Hand

Start far right, few moves to top. Mind the loose hold, better small edge for open hand crimp

FA: Jared Tyerman, 6 Jan 2019

Boulder 2m
Glacier Rock
18 Back in the day..

Bolted line starting just left of the gentle aréte at the first amphitheater you turn into. Fun partial cruxy move mid way.

Sport 20m
18 Juggernaut
1 18 20m
2 18 25m

The crack in the corner toward the left of the first amphitheater you turn into. Is climbed breaking the crack into 2 pitches.

  1. 20m (18) Ground to cave mid way. Belay out of this.

  2. 25m (18) Then up crack and slab. Up semi overhang to ledge.

Has 2 rappel bolts (spread far apart - be wary). Alternatively traverses right and up to a bolted anchor to rappel (take link as are hangers). Steep in parts. Has great views of Cairns and Green Island.

Trad 45m, 2
18 Radiocarbon
1 18 45m
2 17 10m
3 14 25m
4 18 20m
5 8 50m

This traditional climbing line will get you from the base of the cliff all the way directly to the lookout at the top of Glacier Rock where you can walk out without rappelling back to the ground (so take everything with you), go light, take 2 ropes (in case of need to rappel), slings & biners, a double rack of cams, and a quicklink in case.

  1. 45m (18) 'F#ck the Juggernaut' - Start as for Juggernaut following 45m part offwidth part stellar hand jam crack directly up corner but link into a single pitch. Great movements. Can place protection on slab as well as climb on this when the crack is a little chossy mid way. Head up and around over hang then slightly up and right to small cave on ledge to set up natural belay.

  2. 10m (17) 'Bouldering on a Multi Pitch' - Head up and right on black slab to lip. Place a piece early and run out to lip. Semi committing move. Once past lip and on ledge set up anchor using either natural pro or bolted anchor on floor. Now look up to see mighty proud white slab (this is your heading).

  3. 25m (14) 'Of Choss and Vegetation' - Again, place an early piece then head up chunky arete right next to belay (can muscle up or commit to slab/arete). After this you will topout into vegetation, follow this to large boulders placing some solid pieces and climb straight up and slightly left (be mindful of loose rock - choss). Continue past this through veg to base of slab. Extend gear (reducing drag) and head up a few metres then right to make natural belay on top of boulders below mighty proud white slab.

  4. 20m (18) 'Cracked System' - Traverse slightly right to base of bouldery crack system (can set up a more direct belay here to reduce drag). Head straight up following bouldery cracks into short roof hand jam crack. Stellar sick moves (especially if your feet cut ). Head up a few metres to obvious solid boulder to set up anchor in cracks (Take a 0.1 cam as it is vital for the natural belay! - Bomber). The proud white slab is up for grabs and has cracks for pro - can access from lookout to send in isolation.

  5. 50m (8) 'Scramble to The Top' - Head straight up on left side of belay slinging trees as you go for peace of mind. After a wee while the lookout trees will emerge (large shiny and strong). Belay off these and high-five your partner/party as they reach the belay, saying hi to any hikers who may pass by during the process .

Ethic: Wear helmets, climb cautiously and understand the escape points (bolted anchor atop pitch 2 - requires mallions - or semi dodgy looking rappel rings atop pitch 1). This climb surprisingly has some shade all day on the tops of pitch 1 and pitch 3 - good for recuperating.

FA: Jared Tyerman & Farid Borbar Yanez, 16 Oct 2019

Trad 150m, 5

Showing all 52 routes.

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