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Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall

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Description

All routes from ELV through to Desperate Living. Afternoon Shade and wall sheltered from light rains.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left to right traverse starting on huge jug in left hand corner (left of ELV) and taking a low level traverse all the way across the wall past Mercy Street finishing in less than ideal rock approx 5m right of this.

FA: 2011

Stand start on the big start hold of the Negal Rees Traverse, follow it right until you meet the start of ELV. Put your skates on and fire up ELV right for a dynamic finish matched on the jug of dyno. Down climb right via staircase.

Sit start left of ELV with RH undercling and LH slopey sidepull. Pull on and go LH to small edge, then bypass finger slot with RH and instead go to higher sidepull. LH sidepull, then RH dynamic into the slot of ELV Lefthand. LH to jug. 5 moves.

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

FA: Hamish Meffin & Ross Meffin, 1991

A short powerful sequence starting on good holds at head height into a crimpy crux section to the big incut feature followed by some big moves to the top of the staircase.

FA: Hamish Meffin & Ross Meffin, 1991

Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds (sidepulls) to one very long dynamic move at the end.

Stand start on the big jug of Nigel's Traverse climb for the traverse right until the big flat edge of ELV and then finish for ELV.

Sit start with LH gaston edge and higher RH sidepull. Make three moves to gain good gaston of original. Take it to the top!

Climb ELV right hand variant to the ledge and finish as for Footswitch.

FA: Petey Pete, 17 Nov 2014

ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.

FA: Steve Kelly, 20 Oct 2014

The obvious flake, equipped for Sport climbing since April 2021.

FA: Rick Jeuken, 1990

A technical sequence. Starting just right of the staircase following the right trending crack to finish at PO chains. The staircase to the left is out.

FA: Stuart Williams, Hamish Meffin & Ross Meffin, 1991

Very contrived. Stick-clip RO's first draw, then climb the blank wall between RO and PO, using their crack's for hand and foot holds.

FA: Paul Kinnane, 2004

Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.

Originally established at 24 via the RO start (the start of Merciless), but a better route starting up PO making it a grade easier. Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the good jug on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Span right to a positive sidepull then keep traversing right into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercy Street.

FA: Justin Taylor; Mick Wells; Bill O'Connor

A training link. Starts on loose jug left of graffiti left of ELV then traverses right to finish up all of PO with no rest.

Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.

Start on good sidepull, head directly up to large curved jug rest before moving up to a funky final sequence in smaller incuts. Grading for this line has changed over the years due to holds breaking. Current grading is approx 20-22

FA: Ross Meffin & Hamish Meffin, 1991

Up Perceptive Orators to the break, then right across the break and into Elephantiasis of the G. A good link. Can also be started as for AGW.

AGW then into PO and finishing as for RO Lefthand finish. Easiest route on this wall.

Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1991

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then bust right and continue as for Beg for Mercy. Sport version of Gonads RHV

A hard crimpy start leads into easier climbing above. Note: The intermediate at the crux has now broken off leaving a jug. This route is now 21

The line without a lower off. Start up EofG, then span right into the right hand crack, and finish straight up (no lower off). Superseded now by the (safer) Beg for Mercy finish.

Up Mercy Street then left to join Gonads RH (groundfall possible) - bust horizontally left into EoftheG then left again into PO. Against your better judgement keep trucking left into RO and finish as for the left hand finish to that route. Runout finish off the PO 2nd bolt.

FA: 2012

The direct start of 'Gonads RHV' but instead of taking its original finish (no anchor and choss), it finishes at the Mercy Street chains. Now a full equipped sport route.

The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.

Climbs the obvious vertical weakness to the right of Mercy Street. When it ends move slightly right via an undercling to some good side pull blocks and up. Rock deteriorates when the layaway ends. Serious runout from half way height to the very top!

FA: Petey Pete, 25 Jan 2017

Start 2 meters right of 'Bomber Choss' under the obvious large sloper. Climb up the face via bouldery moves and finish as for 'Bomber Choss'. Lead using a pre-placed cam #3 in the hole on 'Bomber Choss' with a sling taped to wall - a serious undertaking!

FA: Petey Pete, 7 Feb 2017

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