Routes in Charles Creek

Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m L of the main cliff. Solo past the D-shackles, then jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic descent. (Edit July 2014: Solo D-Shackle and only a single homemade hanger at the DBB. Walk off possible to the left)

Quality line between WW and AP. Start on left side of prominent prow on good holds. Reachy moves on crimps lead to good holds at lip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwksEpAazmM

Sit start and climb the prow right if TDOTL direct. Mostly powerful long spans between good holds gains the interestingly mantle top out.

crouch start on sideways blocks in little hovel between RATDL and A. move up and R through interesting slots and pinch to join the top out for A

Slightly contrived and very difficult. Was worked for two years consistently before eventually being climbed. Start at base of cave on big square block, up to undercling then slap left through terribly slippery holds to top out

effectively a direct finish to Ataraxia, skipping the desperate moves out left. From undercling, move straight up through small jumbled crimps to jug

The line of chalked holds 50m L of the main cliff. Sit Start on the lowest edges, then make a big move up R to gaston and gain a jug before a tricky, slippery top-out. Bring pads and spotters as the landing is quite poor

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

Fairly worthless edition, first climbed onsight and ropeless as a warm up. Start 2 metres left of Unsuspecting below a faint, blank looking scoop. Up through intermittent crimps to easier ground just past half height. Trad anchor possible for top roping or bring crash pads as there’s no gear in the climb itself.

Climb the line of jumbled blocks 2 metres R of TM to a single FH, continue past 2 carrots. Beware a loose rock or two, especially toward the top

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

Pumpy and solid at the grade. Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

Same start as Smear Madness Direct till the second bolt. Keep going straight up following the two fix hanger.

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

Starts 1m R of SM at large scar on rock. Delicate moves past 2 BR, horizontal seam, then another BR. Belay as for SM

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

A very thin, slightly overhanging bolted line in the centre of the buttress. Start on the big chalked undercling, up through tiny crimps passing a BR, grit your teeth through the crux, clip FH then big moves on big holds to top out. Has also been bouldered at V7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwwLZOx590

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.