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Mal's Rock

  • Grade context: AU
8

Summary

Great place for some afternoon toproping after work. Many opertunities for bouldering in this area.

Description

Mals rock is a rock separated from the headland below the water reservoir at Sawtell. The rock is a little sharp on the hands and can be brittle in places. The site has been left as a tope rope area although there is the possibility for some natural leads. The climbs have been named even though they have not been led. Most of the climbs would need BR's and the developers do not wish to deface the area

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

drive to the top carpark of boambee headland the head down the path going east once this path comes to a T- intersection with another you will see Mals Rock Directly in front of you. approach time minutes.

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History

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Mal Drummond and Frank Schlechtriem needed a place close to home to climb so they developed these routes on Mal's rock

Routes

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Grade Route

Center of east face. Strenuous all the way

North face, Start 1m in from NE arete. Start is overhanging slightly then move 1.5ms to right and straight up. Last 2m are small crimpers.

West face, 1m left of SW arete. Technical on small crimpers. At the top traverse to left and mantle over the overhanging rock.

South face, 1.5m to right of SW arete. Start is slightly overhanging up to first ledge. Then on to second ledge and on to top

3m right of 'Double Trouble' Follow the thin small crack to top. Not easy.

North East arete. Hard start then easier to top.

South East arete. A knife edge arete with some fine moves.

Directly behind 'Fine Young Crack'. A mainline climb with lots of useless holds, hence the confusion.

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Activity

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