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The Pharos

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 83

Seasonality

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Description

From Little Bluestone Bay follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.

Access issues inherited from Coastal Cliffs

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp.

Right above the steep sector with ‘pinch of spice’ there is an obvious right trending crack.

FA: M. Hitchcock

Starting in the crack, move to the undercling and leap to the finishing jug.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Climb the arete from a sit start. Despite the two other problems on the boulder having good rock, this one seems to be a bit gravelly.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Large moves between very good holds leads you into some slabby moves near the top.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Steepish face from jug

Face L of arete

Easy corner

Hard thin climbing up the corner, stand start goes as v4 SDS is a project

Amazing line straight up the middle of the face. Obvious right hand crimp to start and very low left hand, follow horizontal break to top out right. (Direct top out is possible)

Historical as of 2022. Rockfall has rendered this boulder impossible (it now litters the base of Pinch of Spice). Potential for new route in overhung space left over.

The right arete of ‘Pharos headstone’, start with low left side pull and right hand on sloper arete slap up to top out as for Pharos headstone

SDS on the prominent arete to the right of Pinch of Spice, up jugs

SDS on the corner flake 1m to the right of arete

Vertical cracks and over bulge on large slab face

SDS in steep cut-out corner towards flakes

Stand start the thin crack immediately right of 45 degree slab

Stand start face and arete of Thin Crack

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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