A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Ryan Sklenica Lewis Traill Tommy Krauss Dylan Tubaro Ewan Barry Will Vidler Kim Walls Talia Hawkes Bonnie MacAdam Liam
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. The Pharos 20 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Pharos 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -42.108792, 148.342200
The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday
description
From Little Bluestone Bay follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.
access issues
A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.
ethic
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Blank Topic
Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp. FA: Ryan Sklenica | V7 | ||||||
2 |
★★★ The pharo’s headstone
Right above the steep sector with ‘pinch of spice’ there is an obvious right trending crack. FA: M. Hitchcock | V4 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Dyno problem
Starting in the crack, move to the undercling and leap to the finishing jug. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V5 | 4m | |||||
4 |
Arete
Climb the arete from a sit start. Despite the two other problems on the boulder having good rock, this one seems to be a bit gravelly. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V3 | 5m | |||||
5 |
★★ Face to slab
Large moves between very good holds leads you into some slabby moves near the top. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | V4 | 5m | |||||
6 |
★ Steepish face
Steepish face from jug | V2 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★ Face L of arete
Face L of arete | V3 | 4m | |||||
8 |
★ Easy corner
Easy corner | VB | 5m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 | ★ 1. | V4 | 5m | |||||
10 |
★ A Dash Of Salt & A Little Bit Of Pepper
SDS Hard thin climbing up the corner FA: Dylan Tubaro FA: Mar 2024 | V4 | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Pinch of Spice
Amazing line straight up the middle of the face. Obvious right hand crimp to start and very low left hand, follow horizontal break to top out right. (Direct top out is possible) FA: Ryan Sklenica | V11 | ||||||
12 |
★★ Bootstrap Bill
Obvious line off jug to pinch and beyond just right of Pinch of Spice. | V2 | ||||||
13 |
★ 4.
Historical as of 2022. Rockfall has rendered this boulder impossible (it now litters the base of Pinch of Spice). Potential for new route in overhung space left over. | V1 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★ Pharo’s arete
The right arete of ‘Pharos headstone’, start with low left side pull and right hand on sloper arete slap up to top out as for Pharos headstone FA: Ryan Sklenica | V6 | ||||||
15 |
★ V2
SDS on the prominent arete to the right of Pinch of Spice, up jugs | V2 | 1m | |||||
16 |
Corner
SDS on the corner flake 1m to the right of arete | V0 - 1 | 2m | |||||
17 |
★ V0's
Vertical cracks and over bulge on large slab face | V0 | 2m | |||||
18 |
Awkward Corner
SDS in steep cut-out corner towards flakes | V5 | 2m | |||||
19 |
Thin Crack
Stand start the thin crack immediately right of 45 degree slab | V1 | 3m | |||||
20 |
★★ Periwinkle Face/Arete
Stand start face and arete of Thin Crack | V4 | 3m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VB | ★ | Easy corner | 5m | ||
V0 | ★ | V0's | 2m | ||
V0 - 1 | Corner | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ | 4. | 3m | ||
Thin Crack | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ | Bootstrap Bill | |||
★ | Steepish face | 4m | |||
★ | V2 | 1m | |||
V3 | Arete | 5m | |||
★ | Face L of arete | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ | 1. | 5m | ||
★ | A Dash Of Salt & A Little Bit Of Pepper | ||||
★★ | Face to slab | 5m | |||
★★ | Periwinkle Face/Arete | 3m | |||
★★★ | The pharo’s headstone | 4m | |||
V5 | Awkward Corner | 2m | |||
★★ | Dyno problem | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ | Pharo’s arete | |||
V7 | ★★ | Blank Topic | |||
V11 | ★★★ | Pinch of Spice |