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Sun Blocks

17

Seasonality

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Description

Only a little distance along the ridge from the stacked boulders of split cherry/#41/#42, this is a nice little set of boulders starring some good mid-grade problems and a lovely crack climb. Climbs at Sun Blocks tend to be a little taller than the rest of the Ridge, and more slabby/technical than some.

The boulders with climbs number 49 to 53 on them.

Access issues inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

Cooleman Ridge
is CNP land, the Plan of Management can be found here. The entire reserve is classified as Zone 2, and will be managed to direct damaging activities to previously disturbed areas.

While recreation is considered a priority for Cooleman Ridge, care should be taken to avoid damage to the habitat of the vulnerable Pink-Tailed Worm-Lizard which likes the same areas we do.

Table 7.4: Bouldering - Best Practice:
- From the PoM:
  • Do not create informal tracks or damage vegetation
  • Do not move rocks or fallen branches
  • Do not disturb plants and animals
  • Keep group sizes small
  • Be considerate of other users Take care of vegetation when placing mats for protection
  • Brush any chalk off the rock with a soft bristled brush when you are finished
  • Carry out all waste
  • Respect regulations and closures.

Adherence to these practices should allow Cooleman Ridge to remain open and provide a low commitment bouldering area for those summer afternoons.

Notes:

Approach

Follow the road to the split cherry area then walk across the ridge to where the hill starts to decline. Follow a line of boulders until you find the climb you're looking for.

Ethic inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start the arete. Crimpy.

Hard sit start to a jump or very high step in a poor incut off a nasty and very sharp right hand crimp. Hold it and top out.

At the far side of the boulder, slab your way up through tenuous holds.

Pure slab, very tenuous. Follow the tiny seam upwards.

Similar to Ray, this problem can be desperate or feel deceptively easy depending how you approach it - go straight up, do not deviate. Sit start doesn't change the grade much but add 1 if you go straight over without using the crack.

A fairly odd problem. Nothing for feet - and don't use the rest boulder right behind it! Very burly. A heel hook may help you. From a sit. Go around or straight over.

Around the corner from the best crack climb on the Ridge, this is yet another slabby semi-highball.

Nearly vertical slab. The blunt arete.

Vertical slab! Enough holds on top - just. If you're brave you'll mantel it.

One of the taller problems on the Ridge, this is a lovely crack, and great for a bit of practice if you're a burgeoning crack fiend.

Another slab, one of the more highball problems on the ridge. Could stem it.

Layback problem. Bit scary up top.

A slightly more forgiving angle than the other slabs around Sun Blocks, and a little shorter, this is still no easybeat.

Sit start beneath vertical seam, climb seam and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 13 Jul 2015

Sit start from lip of roof, climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 18 Jul 2015

Sit start from right side of roof, climb up and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jul 2015

Sit start beneath right arete, climb up and top out.

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Sun 16 Apr
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