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Description

Best accessed from Kambah, you can park at the yards and walk northeastish from the hill or make this your last stop on a whirlwind tour of boulders from the Chapman side. This area is around a 40 metre walk off the track and stars two overhung boulders, one in particular which has some chipped and hairy V6-V8 climbs.

Access issues inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

Please be sensible accessing the Horse Paddock boulders if walking in from the Kambah side and go around the horses rather than straight through the pen. Access from this side is at the end of Hake Street - drive past the pony club and park near the 'Arawang' sign.

Approach

Best off parking at the horse paddocks around the intersection of Hake street and The Bicentennial National Trail then walking through the horse corral up the trail to the boulders.

Ethic inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!

History

History timeline chart

This area has been climbed at for many years, but somehow new chips are still appearing! Leave the drills at home kids!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Balance problem, great training for slab climbs. Of course, friends don't let friends do slab.

Start for #61 and traverse right into pure slab territory. Hit the undercling and make your way up.

Slabby and balancy.

Another slab problem. Using the crack makes it VBeginner.

Stay away from that crack!

Sit start to #63. Starts with left hand on arete and right hand on obvious side-pull.

Slabbity slab slab.

A face climb, slapping the arete on the right. Techy.

Sit start left side pull, climb face\arete and top out.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 14 May 2015

A quality climb slapping up the arete from a sitstart.

Completely chipped. Look for the chipped handholds. Photo is a bit misleading - it's about 60 degrees overhung and the first chipped handhold is a bit too low for most people! Starts on obvious chipped holds, then up using other chipped holds and the aretes.

Same as #67 but eliminating the two aretes, instead going from the chipped holds to the incut before deadpointing to the top.

Sit start using LH in the right most low chipped pocket and RH on right arete. Move up right arete with funky foot moves to top out.

Diesel Power without the chipped holds. Sit start using right hand gaston and left hand on vague arete. Climb bulge and top out. No stacking pads.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 29 May 2015

Sit start using left side pull and right chipped two finger pocket. Climb bulge and top out.

In between the chipped climbs. Quite overhung climbing on sloped holds. Watch your back.

Sit start, climb vague corner and top out. Watch your back.

Sit start at Ares, traverse right and then finish up Hades.

FA: Nick White, 4 Jul

Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout.

Set: Justin Ryan, 2008

Sit start on low side-pulls then straight up using pockets and edges to slopey top out.

Same sit start as Hades, then trend right to arete, heel hook up and edge your way onto positive holds around the blunt arete. Top out from there.

Sit start jug right hand arete, traverse leftwards into Ares finishing up the latter.

Set: Justin Ryan, 2012

Start as for Frankenstein, head up Hades and then continue left to finish directly above the big pocket on Zeus.

Is it a climb if you don't use your hands? Or just a steep walk?

Cute little climb with a few suspect flakes. Sit start out right and head left onto good footholds and easily topout.

Undercling on smears and up. Left hand closer to V1, right hand more like V2.

SlabLyfe.

A nice little jaunt onto a jug.

Stand start the arete.

Sit start and grunt your way up along the arete and using a few oppositional holds.

FA: David Nott

On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route on short overhung face of LHS facing fire trail.

On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route just right of Here's Lucy on back of boulder.

Small sloper traverse on wedge shaped boulder to the right of main group. Sit start on distinctive fang then up and right to arete topout.

FA: Stu & Mike, 2009

sit start problem on thin crack on left near "cave" to mossy topout

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Activity

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