Ascents in Dangars Gorge

Wall was a little oozie follwing recent rains. DB fals were pumping.

Discovering more holds everytime!

All there, had a bit of trouble descending above the slab.

This is the money section. Such a great route. Got through the last overlap and pumped out short of high point.

Epicly good route. Climbing days don't get much better than this. Paul and I rapped the falls with a 200m static (70m left over) and climbed out in a couple hours. The walk in was quite easy, but we were thinking of doing a couple routes in one day. We stayed left of the obvious ledgey chossy route (11?) and had about 3-4 significant cruxes on the route. Only about 15 total meters of loose rock, generally good stuff and pro where you need it. The hardest sections for us were getting to the ledge mentioned for the belay if p2-3. Then the steep juggy section into a sweet 3m handcrack at the first 10m of pitch 3. And then a good but hard finger crack (arcing left) about 40m from the top and the final topout (definitely not the crux of the route we took as the guide sugests) with some blank pro and mega exposure. Great day. But more like 16-17 than 14.

Really happy to finally get on this route. I think I first looked at Dangars 10 years ago and imagined what it would be like. Well, it was great and certainly delivered. Really good clean climbing in parts (particularly on P1-P3), but plenty of loose blocks (P3-P5), and a few chossy teetering towers here and there and we even a couple of passing showers thrown in the mix to keep us on our toes. Pretty good wire placements throughout despite the routes reputation, need to be careful with cam placements though this rock spits them out pretty easily. Probably a few sections that warranted a stiffer grade (16-17), but I guess that the nature of a choose your own adventure, slightly wandering route. Linked P1 & P2, seconded P3, linked P4 & P5. Climbed on twin 60’s. Good times

Not the best attempt, was sloppy coming around the roof, fell well before previous high point

Super long send train, I think we had 8 people queued up along this thing!

Love the nose moves on this

So much fun failing

Stopped before the wasp nest and tried explore the cool features above.

Most numbers I've seen on this route at once today. Fun times!

Another 4 shots. I think I was pretty close to sticking it again.

traverse run

dyno run

dyno run

Chalk bag collection

Got the height but slapped the sloper to the right

Eyed it up properly this time and got a whole hand on the ledge for half a second before popping-off...maybe next shot?

A little humid and moist under foot today. Didn't quite get to the second corner.

Had a play out towards DOTD but dropped off at the crux.

Fun and pumpy!

Pushed it another 3m to the Cobblers Pegs. Slowly getting closer...

Woohoo! Milked the rests to get through this one. Great psych, epic route!

Fell short bumbling around the pinch.

got through to the wasp nest after Scotty and Skip pointed out a few key holds. I then spied a couple of new holds that materialised and gave hope to a link up with MM

Close, got to the crux near the end.

Fun jugs and slopers with a few campus moves

Second burn after I watched Ben Vincent unlock the whole traverse. Was a bit sloppier this time, got dyno only on second try like before, was a little pumped at the birds nest and didn't recover much. Got onto the crux hold, feet need to be way further around

Felt great, hit the dyno perfect on the first time for the first time (instead of slapping, fall, catch, re-adjust and go again) and then moved to the roof jugs statically. Had an explore through the next 4 or so moves before splashing down

Had a good crack, felt more in control and progressed another move, and the next 3 or so clear in my head

Jumped on to warm up, was a little blase and almost fell off a meter in. Also dabbed the water as I rounded the crux. Should Dab be a legit DWS tick type? I guess it doesn't benefit you like it would touching a pad, but it is also a gauge of quality so why not?

Watched Benji clutch desperately at what he said was not a good hold and decided to give try it, lo and behold I stuck it and wicked stoked to unlock the next couple meters to the super juicy birds nests.

Feell at pretty well same place as last time. It feels harder than superheroes, but I think that's misleading as it just takes ages to get to the crux

Pretty stoked to see this extension go. Potential to link TIAB.

Slippery pinches and slopers in the sun...Fell short several moves from the mud wasp nest.

Pushed the traverse extension another 10m or so by descending down and left. Got a hand on a juggy rest before dropping off. Looks as though the next moves will be going up again!