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Routes in Dangars Gorge for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Dangars Falls
13 Slippery When Wet

Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.

  1. 33m. Up rib (15m) then traverse right (6m.) and up to ledge below steep wall (rusty piton).

  2. 18m. Diagonally up and right, then traverse right and up corner with thin crack to very large ledge (another rusty piton).

  3. 22m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up to belay in small corner (yet another rusty piton).

  4. 28m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up corner, then right onto nose, then right into second corner, up corner then traverse right to belay on ledge 6m. left of Action.

  5. 30m. Diagonally up left across slabs then to base of wall, traverse left and down slightly, then up fine, left diagonal crack to belay in sentry box.

  6. 23m. Up diagonally right crack line, then diagonally right again to corner, left around projections.

  7. 18m.The line of least resistance to top.

FA: Al Stephens & G.Francis (alt leads), 1980

Trad 170m
13 Toecap

Start: As for S.W.W. The rib. Avoid any yellow rock ! Its rotten...Variant starts are possible to the left.

  1. 45m. Up left of rib, then onto rib, up slabs to wall, traverse 5m. to left, then up corner to large ledge, then scramble easily up to ledge below steep wall.
  2. 40m. Diagonally left onto slabs, up slabs to obvious corner.
  3. 45m. Up corner, traverse left along ledge to belay stance.
  4. 40m. Rising traverse to right (poor protection), then to ledge.
  5. 30m. Up wall and scramble to top.

FA: Bob Harden & Doug McLean, 1965

Trad 200m

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