Showing all 15 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Half Way Boulders Turtle Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Blastoise
Sit Start 1m right of juggy arete on RH side jug and LH sloper just left. Head up top via 2 slopers to better edges trending slightly L to top out. | 3m | |||
The Creeky Boulders Skitz Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Skitz
Sit Start on large low sloper, climb the horizontals, top put over the bulge. | ||||
The Nerve Chasm | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Nerve Test
An area classic and definitely worth the walk. Named for the graffiti adorning the wall at its start. Start matched on good horizontal and slap up the deceivingly slopey arête. FA: Steve Kelly | 4m | |||
Wall of Evils | |||||
25 | ★★ Constantine
Start about 8m right of Evil Angels at the obvious holds. Move up to stance on top of ledge trend left then back right past the horizontal and up into blank territory, keep going for the desperate finish. 4 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks Closed Project. FFA: Closed Project, Nov 2016 FA: Closed Project, Nov 2016 | 15m, 4 | |||
Burial Ground Boulders Vlad Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Vlad The Impaler
Stand start matched on the horizontal. Use the undercling to gain the sloper. Out to an edge then jump to the top. Easy mantle. FA: Peter Arcidiaco | ||||
Leaning Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Your Mother's a Christian Scientist
Follows prominent right facing corner stepped by roofs to a set of chains. FFA: Robert Oliver, 1994 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Look Who's Oinking
Originally climbed by Matt Adams on trad gear, now climb the huecoed crack 2m right of G.O.S. stepping left at the 4th bolt to end up face past many horizontal breaks. 6 bolts + chains. FFA: Matt Adams, 1994 | 16m, 6 | |||
25 | OPEN PROJECT
Right of L.W.O. 3 rusted bolts can be seen leading up the blank slab and over a small rooflet. Attempted by Hamish Meffin in the 1980s. CURRENT OPEN PROJECT. Nice set of new chains (2016) at the top to clip when you send it. Replacing the bolts on the climb would be a good idea before you try this, they are old (1980's) and rusty. | 20m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ One Inch Punch
Up the crack right of S.F.P. Attempted by Mark Witham & Hamish Meffin in the 1980s before lowering off fixed wire, which still remains. A core intensive layback leads to tough jamming and a rather dynamic crux. Stay off the right hand wall. Great gear at the bottom leads to a fixed wire, followed by 2 bolts in the crux section. Mixed route, 2 bolts + chains. FFA: Robert Brooks, Sep 2016 | 17m, 2 | |||
Pride Rock | |||||
V5 | I Need A Bar
Starts looking out of the West facing exit deep in the cave. Start on crimpy undercling and traverse right. Finish 5m right on high angled large pocket FA: Seth | ||||
V5 | ★★ Sloth Morning Glory
Start matched on the large roof jug and move out to a large sharp side pull. Tag a gaston with your left hand and make a big move to a good side pull. From here work through some underlings, up and around the bulge to gain a good edge before gaining the 'glory' jug. Traverse up and left to top out onto the slabby boulder at the caves entrance. An absolute classic of the area! | ||||
The Mecca | |||||
V5 | ★★★ High On His Own Supply
A tremendous highball on the southwest side of the boulder. Start on the obvious incuts at the centre-right of the overhang face; bust a move to the lip, gain the mantle, and then enjoy the heady slab climbing. Top out with relief. FA: Ed Heddle, 27 Aug 2017 | 6m | |||
The Power Plant | |||||
V5 | ★★★ High Voltage
Sit start on LH 2-finger pocket and RH slopey edge at the bottom of the 45°. Traverse R on small edges to gain the lip, then duck back left to top out. Tough climbing with a flat landing, always pleasurable. FFA: Robert Brooks, Oct 2015 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ It's a Long Way to the Top
Climb High Voltage then where it breaks left to a mantle top out, continue right along lip to a harder mantle press. FA: Redanon, Apr 2018 | 4m | |||
Big End Rock | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Paradox
Climb the runnel right of Charisma / Chameleon Project to a nail biting finish. Formerly referred to as Hypothesis which defied attempts to send it in the 70's. FFA: Robert Brooks & Ryszard Barone, Aug 2015 | 7m |
Showing all 15 routes.