Help

Rosa Gully

Access: Please read access information section!

Access to this area is in jeopardy - please read access information about how you can prevent this area being closed. You may be fined by the police or asked to leave if you do not follow this advice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
35

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

READ THE ACCESS ISSUES SECTION. Although Rosa Gully sports some pretty big cliffs and easy access it's a remarkably unpopular crag, especially when you consider that Diamond Bay (which is right next door) is very popular. This is probably because the rock at the mouth of the gully is damp some of the year (particularly during summer or when an easterly or southerly is blowing) and all of the fixed protection rotted away a millenia ago. But recent rebolting and retrobolting has made many fine routes there now. The main problem is that the narrow gully is a wind tunnel, a small breeze up top will roar through the gully. If it's an easterly or southerly (all summer basically) it'll carry huge amounts of sea spray onto the climbs at the gully mouth, the climbs deeper in may be fine. If it's a westerly (winter) it can be chilly. But conditions are great there about half the year so go for it!

Access issues inherited from Vaucluse

Access to this area is in jeopardy! Please read this important information before climbing here.

To access this area requires climbing a fence that is marked “Keep out, no access”. This fence has been erected to stop suicides and risky selfie takers. In recent years climbers have been approached by NSW Police and Waverly Council rangers when crossing this fence. In 2021 police have issued fines for climbers crossing this fence during Covid lockdown.

A November 16, 2020 Waverly Council meeting confirmed that climbers are not supposed to be receiving infringement notices for accessing climbing areas but authorities will intervene if they believe that members of the public are putting themselves at risk.

“Council enforcement staff have been applying a discretionary approach to enable rock climbers, slack liners and fisherman to access areas at Diamond Bay and Eastern Avenue Reserve. Rangers will not issue infringement notices to this group of people.”

Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. A woman fell to her death whilst partying on the cliff edge of Diamond Bay in 2020 and Council rangers and police have been instructed to stop this happening again. The fence is part of their enhanced community safety plan.

Do not cross the fence in front of walkers and sightseers. Don't create a false alarm by hanging around at the top of the climbing area on the wrong side of the fence. Bystanders may mistake you for a potential jumper and report it. Make it obvious you are a climber by wearing a harness and helmet at all times - put them on in the carpark so there is no confusion about your intentions to outsiders. Always remain harnessed up and attached to anchors when near cliff edges. Be discrete and low key - this is not the place to pose and perform in front of bystanders.

Actively discourage any bystanders from climbing the fence to see what you are climbing or to take selfies. The cliffs are for experienced climbers and slackliners only - not a place for tourists to take photos. As a climber please avoid taking photographs of your mates climbing from the cliff top - this will just encourage non -climbers to join you.

If you are approached by police or rangers please follow their instructions and report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and Australian Climbing Association NSW (ACANSW) via email president@nsw.climb.org.au

ACANSW suggests you print out page 5 from the following Waverly Council meeting notes and keep this on you when climbing in the area to show to any police or rangers. https://www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/data/assets/pdffile/0020/187310/DoverHeights_Report_for_Motions_from_November_2020_correct.pdf

ACANSW continues to discuss these access issues with Waverly Council and local police in the hope we can maintain access for climbers in future years.

Approach

Rosa Gully is located just north of Diamond Bay and parking for both the crags is the same. From the carpark follow the footpath north through the park. At the north eastern end of the park head over to the fence where it creates a small inward corner. Climb over the fence just to the right of the warning sign. From here pick up the track through the trees leading down into the gully. This track heads into the northern branch (the gully has two branches) and continues into the main gully. Scramble down the main gully and towards the water where the existing climbs are located. An obvious feature is the ladder at the mouth of the gully on the northern side. This leads up to the Walk Around Ledge which continues north for several hundred metres and where some of the climbs start from. It's worthwhile taking a wander along the ledge even if you don't plan on climbing since it's quite interesting. The routes are described from left to right (from the southern side to the northern side) facing the cliff. Access to the mouth of the gully vanishes when the waves are rough.

History

History timeline chart

The area was opened in the 1970s with a couple of routes from Mike Law, Gary Eggans, and Matt Dunstan, and substantially developed by Mike Law in the 1980s. The area has seen much re-bolting.

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Fri 23 Jun
Check out what is happening in Rosa Gully.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文