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Rosa Gully North Side

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Summary

READ THE ACCESS ISSUES SECTION. Really pretty, good conditions on still winter days, a dramatic ladder and ledge system leading North.

Description

The rock in Rosa Gully stays quite wet after rain. Summer is very moist near the mouth of the gully due to onshore winds, the longer routes at the top are generally ok. WInter is nice but can be chilly

All the fixed pro resembles blobs of rusted metal which could almost be pulled out by hand. Except for routes that have been rebolted with stainless.

Access issues

(September 2019) Access at this area is in jeopardy! Due to the death of a tourist who accidentally fell off the cliff there has been police and council rangers patrolling this area - and they have made threats of fines for climbing here. The legal position of climbers is currently being worked out by ACANSW. At the moment it is best to avoid climbing at this area until further notice. If you do choose to climb here and are approached by authority take detailed notes - and ask them what specific law you are breaking. Report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and ACANSW. To avoid being confused with a suicidal "jumper" wear a helmet and avoid standing on the top of the cliff by yourself. Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Don't create a false alarm.

Approach

Walk in from the grassy 'Vee" between the 2 branches of the gully is ok, can be tricky if wet or locals are watering the community garden.

Routes on the left side of the north wall of the gully are described first.

History

View historical timeline

Developed by everyone's favorite bolter, Mike Law, back in the 1970's. Rebolted and retrobolted 40 years later

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs (you can clip 1st bolt on Rainbow Connection and have your second unclip it later) and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily through ledge and funkies up second ramp to anchor.

FA: Patrick Burr, 3 Jun 2015

Start a metre right of Chicken of the Sea, head up and rightwards to finish up a thin crack. Varied and slightly wonky climbing on good rock

FA: Michael Law, 2015

About 12m R of Rainbow Connection etc, and 10m L of pornflakes. Up tricky slab, ditto bulge, then easy corner to top

FA: Michael Law, 2019

Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy, scary trad (13!), extended by Eugene.

Long draws will cut drag.

Originally called 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge.

FA: Michael Law, 1976

FA: Eugene Mak, 4 Jul 2015

"A ficticious natural force". Originally a trad 18! Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way. About 12m right of Pornflakes, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS).

Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top. heading left after the roof is easier and has its own bolt now.

FA: mikl law, 1980

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. Below the obvious crack in the middle of the orange wall, about 6m left of the ladder. An enjoyable and technical little outing, but unfortunately the bolts are pretty far gone (for a change!).

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 1m right of SS. Head up and slightly right past break and corroded BRs. Continue to roof and finish up cracks.

Mike Law 1980s

This route (working title "The Frelling Wall") was abandoned when a large chunk of rock fell off and nearly brained the belayer (and made the route significantly harder - 24/25). It also seeps a lot. If you want to have go before the rest falls into the sea, all yours.

Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route.

Bolted

Nice rock and gear. Start below the corner 5m right of TC and 3m left of ladder.

  1. 15m (16) Up the corner (sling runner possible), onto 2nd big ledge and continue up cracks (crux) heading left at top (avoid the super easy corner on left). Lower off at 15m

  2. 30m (15) Not worth doing this pitch, Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

FA: mikl law, 1978

Has a monster traverse along the lip of a roof. 3 good trad pitches and a wandery one.

  1. 15m Start up Tourist Route, and then step right to crack on lip and up to belay on 2 rings.

  2. 25m (16) Up wall past 2 bolts to mantel (little cams on right) and up to ledge (bolt to protect second). Walk left 10m and up tricky corner to belay at first step, 6m up. (There are highline anchors on top of the next block)

  3. 20m (19) Traverse right 15m along fist sized horizontal (many cams) above space to skyline, then up little corner and bolt to mantel at more highline anchors. Streno.

  4. 10m (19) walk up to bulge behind. Start right of fallen boulders. Up into 'hook' and up, right 1.5m to only finishing hold. Streno

The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...

Climbs the rightmost of the 3 cracks through the roof. Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB), or traverse left to loweroff on Tourist Route.

FA: Michael Law, 1977

Follow bolts right of ladder up arete, funky off the ledge. belay on anchor post and crappy fixed hangers. P2 is an unfinished project.

  1. 10m Climb face crack 10m R of the ladder. Tricky first move to good wire. A nice pitch of 17

  2. 12m Stick clip bolt then up corner, good hand sized cam on right arete at top, then left to lower off.

On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 40 more years of weathering!

  1. 20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).

  2. 20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

Full scale multipitch, seacliff atmosphere with modern protection. Originally done as a 4 pitch trad route, the top pitch is a chossy mess, and pitch one (described separately) is a good trad problem, so this is the middle 2 pitches. It climbs a slightly suspect flake, gear in the flake will tend to loosen it, so bolts on the left keep you and the rope out of the way if big edges come off the flake (I used double ropes). If the flake decides to go for a walk you're all dead anyway. Start by climbing the ladder and walking past the first arete (Posturing). After another 12m you scramble over a boulder and there's a small corner.

  1. 12m (20) Hard start up the corner and traverse right to the arete, up onto belay ledge.

  2. 18m (18) Head right past loose block (one already gone!) to right side of flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay.

To descend do a 30m rap back to the ledge. The rap overhangs the ledge slightly so you can bounce wildy and hope for the best, but better if the first person down clips the rap rope into the top 2 runners down P2 so they can get left and down to the walk round ledge. Next down takes the draws off and gets pulled (or bounces) onto the ledge.

FA: Michael Law, 1984

Trad first pitch, great rock and a bit punchy. Walk around at low tide, or rap down from ledge straight below Obscurity. Start just left of a finger undercling flake (A Certain Flare).

FA: Michael Law, 1984

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

  1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

FA: Michael Law, 1980

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Several climbers has been threatened with fines by police for climbing this route (September 2019). The police are called out because locals think climbers are suicidal people ready to jump. Police deal with over 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Wear climbing helmets and try and look like a climber as much as possible. When belaying at the top be friendly to people walking past. It's best to rap back down the route rather than climb the fence and walk off.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp about 40m R of Obscurity (ringboilted corner).

  1. 19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. Originally given 15 on trad!

  2. 18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up right to belay.

  3. 20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves. Double U belay. Small 'stile' to help you over the sharp picket fence.

FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, Warwick Payten & Jeff Crass, 1 Jan 2014

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave

  1. 15m (18) Up ramp , step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge all Ubolts now.

  2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

  3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1970's

FA: Michael Law, 1979

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. About 3m right of KC.

  1. 40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).

  2. 30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.

Mikl Law 1980's

FA: Michael Law, 1978

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