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Bronte Beach

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Summary

Sandstone bouldering on the beach, a mix of intermediate and hard problems.

Description

Eastern Sydney beach bouldering thereby at times wet, brittle and sandy (a big soft brush is necessary). But plenty of classic and hard problems exist here.

Access issues

Bouldering is tolerated by the beach surf lifesaving club.

Approach

From Bronte Marine Dr walk down the path to the Surf life saving club. Walk then north along the sand, problems are listed in order from here. The rock line lies to your left and continues north to the headland.

Alternatively follow first path to beach from B.M.Dr and turn left or right for problems according to first topo.

Ethic

Pick up rubbish, clean holds, respect locals.

History

History timeline chart

Activity from Garth Miller and Myers Haines in the 90's, revived by Dadevi Corà in 2019.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Upper body intensive moves: Campus to the good hold, followed by an easy exit.

Peter Jeavons

Emmanuel Madayag

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as for PBDGFBN. Huge shoulder intensive movement to the right before lip. Exit often wet after rain.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start 1m right of PBDGFBN. Huge move to the left, exit via slopers as for GJ.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Huge initial move than traverse to the left and exit as for GJ.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Jumps from the hole to the board of the roof. Hard swing. Easy exit.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start on the sandy jug, head left via athletic moves on nice holds. Exit as for Crodyno.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as left as you can, traverse on slopers.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as for Kukkurdì then follow the underclings. Exit as for SRBD.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start on the good jug on left side of the scoop. Exit left with the underclings. Fantastic.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Straight exit of SR. Big move on sharp holds.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start on the right side of the scoop, follow the obvious ramp and exit as LF. V3 if using exit of NN.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as for VDV but continue straight up in the roof and exit as for LF.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start totally right, follow the obvious nice ridge holds then turn corner on lower iron crimps and hueco then up and left to the diving board (mid height ledge). Keep going all the way left on upper jugs and finish by slapping white paint dot.

FA: Alex Neighbour, 2015

Start as for B along pie crust ridge to iron horn corner then pounce up to crumbly ill-advised roof (top out). Be careful of breaking holds and avoid if beach goers around.

FA: Alex Neighbour, 2015

As for B but continues without the boards (no mid height ledge).

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Big jump from two crimps. Very nice.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start on the ramp, hard dynamic move to reach the last jug.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as TGAOTS, hard first move then jugs traversing to the right.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Easy with a nice jump.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Very big jump.

Sit start, easy with the method/beta, hard without.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as for Sbrodola, exit as for Spaddolo.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Sit start. Climb the first roof than move to the left, climb the second roof via slopers. Don't skip the second roof, exiting totally left.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Sit start. Straight in roof with poor holds.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Juggy athletic roof.

FA: Alex Neighbour, 2015

Traverse the main lower lip from far left to far right, exiting onto the ledge. Possible top out option via TC.

FA: Alex Neighbour, 2015

Sit start with two good crimps. From the jug move a bit to the left with pinches.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start as for Battló. Traverse to the right with pinches and slopers.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Start 2m right of Babau. Jump to reach the board (ledge) then exit as Babau. The big jug on left is out.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Big moves on bad holds ~V11.

Pinch the pockets and jump to the good sloper. Very hard ~V13.

Jump from both one finger pockets to the sloper. Hard exit ~V15.

Start on the jug, big moves on good holds. Top is the last edge to crimp on the roof.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Hard move to reach the lip.

Start deep in the cave on the jug. Continue on one finger pockets. Strange method.

Peter Jeavons

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

Infinite traverse on jugs.

FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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